RiverRoots: Shad Wars

River Roots: Shad Wars

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.


The river is home to many different species of fish including, smallmouth bass, walleye, catfish, musky, northern pike, American shad, and many other smaller panfish. The American Shad on the Susquehanna River has the most interesting and violent history.

Each year millions of migratory shad flooded the river from the Atlantic Ocean and surged upstream to reproduce in the Susquehanna’s North Branch at Cooperstown, NY and streams near Lock Haven. Men and women all along the river from the Chesapeake to New York state relied on the abundance of shad. Known as the “poor man’s salmon,” shad runs lasted for about a month. That brief season provided a burst of protein after a long, lean winter. It also caused disputes, battles, and violent riverfront confrontations for nearly a century.

Shad

Shad are a schooling ocean fish. When they migrate north into fresh water to spawn, buck shad (males) usually come first followed by roe shad (females). Roe shad are generally twice the size of buck shad. Temperature of the water decides when the journey begins. The water must be warmer than 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Shad runs happen all along the Atlantic Coast beginning in January in Georgia’s rivers while in the Northeast the runs are in May or June. However, you will not find a mature shad spawning in Georgia one year and Pennsylvania the next. They will return to their natal river to spawn. That means each river has a distinct spawning stock. On the Lower Susquehanna River, shad runs are normally between mid-April and June.

Schools of fish will follow the deep channels of the river as they travel north. When they reach their spawning location they will normally spawn between sunset and midnight. Shad prefer a gravel or sandy bottom in 4-8 feet of slow-moving water. They are sensitive to light so the brightness of a full moon on a clear night could delay the spawn. Spawning behavior includes a pairing of male and female shad. The pair will swim close together releasing their eggs and milt simultaneously. The shad will normally descend from the river back to the ocean shortly after spawning.

Shad eggs can take between 7 and 21 days to hatch depending on the water conditions. Larvae drift in the river until they mature into juveniles. Juveniles will stay in the river a few months feeding on zooplankton and insects. By late fall, most juvenile shad will migrate south of coastal waters. These juveniles will not return to the river for three to six years until they are ready to spawn.

America’s Founding Fish

Native Americans used nets and weirs to catch shad. They would nail the fish to cedar planks and slow cook it over and open fire. In the course of cooking, the tiny shad bones dissolve. The cooking technique was passed to early English settlers and generations to come and is commonly called shad planking. European colonists also kept barrels of salted shad in their homes.

It was such a valuable staple that it was one of Colonial America’s first exports back to Great Britain and Europe. One Columbia man wrote ‘they were so plenty that five to ten dollars per hundred was esteemed a fair price.’ It was so important that access to shad fisheries could be used to settle bills and fathers willed islands and fishing spots to their sons.

Columbia was a hub for shad distribution. The fruits of the river were distributed not just in local markets but also hotels, inns, and restaurants. The Tremont Hotel in Columbia was famous for its planked shad dinners. A visitor from Pittsburg described the Columbia planked shad dinner:

Fresh from the Susquehanna, nailed to a smoking pine plank, broiled thereon before a hot fire, brought to the table on the wood on which it was cooked; steaming hot, brown and crisp on the outer surface; white, juicy and flaky just underneath and clear through, with an indescribably delicate flavor possessed by a shad cooked in no other way, served with crisp, green lettuce and Saratoga chips; served in a cool dining room looking out toward the broad bosom of the sun-kissed river; gentle zephyrs playing in and out of the open windows, a pleasant, jolly, brilliant company, full of jest and song and story-there is nothing under the blue skies that can equal it, save the except more of the same. It is a revelation.  – Pittsburg Dispatch, May 13, 1889.

As early as 1700, the province of Pennsylvania had passed legislation relating to fishing access. The first law barred the construction of fish weirs that stretched from shore to shore. The law was not specifically aimed at protecting the fish populations on their migration, rather, it was intended to make fish equally available to everyone that lived along the waterways. In 1731, the Pennsylvania Assembly received a petition from Lancaster County residents. The Conestoga Creek had been dammed by Stephen Atkinson to for his fulling mill operation. The petition complained that the great quantities of fish once available up stream were stuck below the dam. Atkinson offered to leave a 20-foot-wide passage to allow fish to pass upstream. Before the Assembly took any action, locals took matters into their own hands and destroyed the dam.

Library of Congress

In 1761, the Pennsylvania Assembly would pass a series of laws for the preservation of fish in the Susquehanna. It called for weirs, racks, baskets, pounds, and similar devices erected in the river to be destroyed and prohibited building in future years. As seines and large fishing operations became popular in the nineteenth century, the farther north you were on the river the less fish you were likely to catch. In 1814, Pennsylvania northerners complained that fisherman in Columbia were ‘constantly scouring’ shad that most had no chance of making it farther upstream. The Pennsylvania Legislature divided the river into sections and staggered fishing days – though they never enforced it.

About 50 years later, public sentiment demanded the government intervene to protect the shad runs. Between 1825 and 1840 multiple dams had been built on the Susquehanna: one at Columbia and two more on West Branch and Juniata tributaries. The Columbia dam was completed in 1839 and although the state had legislation requiring approval of the engineering plans there was no fishway constructed. A fishway would not be added to the Columbia dam until 1866, so for over 25 years frustrated fisherman complained. Legislation edicts were ended when a proper government agency was created in 1866 and expanded in 1871 – it is now known the Pennsylvania Fish and Boat Commission.

Lancaster Daily Intelligencer, May 12, 1885

Each spring, newspapers announced the shad run had arrived as fisherman’s wagons loaded down with fresh fish rolled into towns. In 1882, the Lancaster Daily Intelligencer reported that fish dealers throughout the streets of the city doing “lively trade” selling Columbia shad for 25 to 65 cents a piece. Between 1831 and 1850, fisherman caught 41,000 metric tons of shad every year in the Chesapeake Bay region. That is equivalent to the weight of a humpback whale taken from the bay every year! As commercial fisheries expanded to answer the demand for shad and overfishing decreased the shad population, it is easy to see how a disagreement over shad could quickly turn violent.

Shad Wars

Violent outbursts over shad were common every spring from the mid-1700s through the Civil War. Weapons ranged from rocks to rifles – and allegedly a cannon – and their actions became locally referred to as the shad wars. Fishermen would fight over best fishing places, accesses to river islands, and mill dams restricting good fishing. Nearly all the confrontations were on the lower Susquehanna River – south of Columbia. There was a great number of islands to be used for fishing on this section. Islands could be bought and sold like any other private property and were highly desirable locations for good shad fishing.

In the 1850s, a series of incidents became known as the Great Safe Harbor Shad War. In the most heated incident, Columbia seine fishermen traveled down to Safe Harbor to destroy weirs, baskets and other ‘shad-killing contrivances’ in use. The Columbia invaders were met by men with rocks and boat poles as their weapons. It is said that the Columbians retreated under threat of fire from a Griffin cannon made at the nearby Safe Harbor Iron Works. The Safe Harbor men long denied using the cannon. At the end of the decade, six Columbia fishermen attempted to take a fishing island by force. It was claimed by residents of Washington Boro. After a physical exchange, the Columbia men returned to town and charged the Washington Boro men with causing a riot. The judge convicted the Boro men with assault and battery and fined them $5 each. (Columbia Spy, June 16, 1860)

In 1862, a group of anglers from Turkey Hill area were caught poaching shad on an island and fired upon a group of York county men who came to remove them from the island. In the exchange, the Turkey Hill men fired four shots, killing one York Countian and seriously wounding another. A court jury sent one of the Turkey Hill men to Eastern State Penitentiary for 11 ½ years for second-degree murder. (Columbia Spy, November 26, 1862)

Laws had also been passed to prohibit fishermen hauling in shad nets within a half-a-mile from any dam. At the Columbia dam, many locals were continuing to fish just south of the dam. In April 1880, five state fish wardens were sent to Columbia to break up the illegal fishing. The fish wardens were met on the river with distain and their boat was overturned. They managed to swim to the canal tow path and shore but were greeted by more locals carrying “black-jacks, empty bottles, and sections of rock. The wardens reached their hotel nearly more dead than alive, and the landlord locked them in their rooms where they could patch up their cracked heads and listen to the serenades of the fishers under their windows.” (Columbia Spy, May 1, 1880) In a state report later recounting the ongoing illegal fishing at Columbia, they noted that a half-dozen or more delinquents eventually were imprisoned and fined.

In an 1879 report form the Fish Commissioners, there were 48 fisheries in the 5 miles between Columbia and Turkey Hill. There were another 200 fisheries between Turkey Hill and Havre de Grace, Maryland. Over fishing had become a significant issue. The fish commission spent the next decade creating hatcheries along the lower Susquehanna to increase shad populations. They stocked the river with over ten million juvenile shad between 1889 – 1891. The real end to commercial shad fishing would come as a result of the hydroelectric dam construction at Conowingo, Holtwood, and Safe Harbor. Although fishways and stocking programs help boost shad populations, the shad runs of the nineteenth century will likely never return to the lower Susquehanna.

 

Sources

Chesapeake Bay Program: Shad. https://www.chesapeakebay.net/issues/shad

Columbia Spy. (Columbia, PA) 1849 – 1902. Pennsylvania State Newspaper Archive.  https://panewsarchive.psu.edu/lccn/sn83032185/

Crable, Ad. “Shad Wars: A Long, Violent Period in Lancaster County over a Fish in the Susquehanna,” March 31, 2018. https://lancasteronline.com/news/local/shad-wars-a-long-violent-period-in-lancaster-county-over-a-fish-in-the-susquehanna/article_48c6e18a-3281-11e8-bbdd-c3310badc12c.html.

Gerstell, Richard. American Shad: A Three-hundred Year History in the Susquehanna River Basin. Pennsylvania, Pennsylvania State University Press, 1998.

Justice, Chris. “Shad: An Undeniably American Icon,” March 26, 2008.  https://www.popmatters.com/shad-an-undeniably-american-icon-2496164311.html

McPhee, John. The Founding Fish. New York: Farrar, Straus and Giroux, 2003.

RiverRoots: Atlantic Flyway

River Roots: Atlantic Flyway

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.


This month SNHA is celebrating natural heritage by exploring the lower Susquehanna River’s connections to a network of key stopover sites along the Atlantic Flyway. The beneficial effects of the Susquehanna River’s connection to the flyway have played an important role in creating rich biodiversity and potentially shaped the foundations of early settlement and local culture.

The Conejohela Flats are part of a series of locations on the lower Susquehanna that offer respite for migratory birds. Some other sites include the Muddy Run Reservoir, Conowingo Reservoir, and the Susquehanna River at Safe Harbor. Each location’s unique attributes aid the birds during their stop along the flyway. These stopover sites continually draw large volumes and varieties of migrating birds through the Susquehanna River corridor biannually.

The Atlantic Flyway

A flyway is a route regularly used by large numbers of migrating birds and the Atlantic Flyway is one of four major flyways in North America. The other flyways include the Central, the Pacific and the Mississippi. The Atlantic Flyway is a major north-south flyway for migratory birds in North America. Stretching from the Arctic tundra of Baffin Island to the Caribbean, the Atlantic Flyway spans more than 3,000 miles. The route generally starts in Greenland, then follows the Atlantic coast of Canada, continuing south down the east coast of the United States, then to the tropical areas of South America and the Caribbean.

According to Audubon, about 500+ bird species use the Atlantic Flyway. Millions of songbirds, shorebirds, birds of prey, and waterfowl follow the flyway every fall and spring. The flyway is not limited to birds alone, the route is also used by butterflies, as well as some species of bats and dragonflies.

Migration can be triggered by a combination of changes in day length, temperatures, food supplies, and genetic predisposition. Spring migration occurs in a mass movement within the flyway.  It takes place over a shorter period than the fall migration since birds are anxious to reach their breeding grounds. March through May, you can see flocks making their way north across the United States. The fall migration season is a drawn-out affair. The travelers begin heading south starting in August and lasting through October, but some waterfowl can procrastinate until December depending on weather conditions.

Migrating birds use a variety of methods to navigate the flyway. Topographical cues, such as coastlines, river courses, and mountain ranges, help to guide the flight. Typically, species in the Atlantic Flyway migrate farther, making stopover sites critical to their journey. Migrating birds rely on these sites to breed, feed or rest, particularly along the east coast of the United States. The Chesapeake Bay and Susquehanna River form the single largest watershed on the East Coast and provide a variety of important stopover sites. Each site plays a critical role in migratory birds’ survival.

The Conejohela Flats Important Bird Area

The Conejohela Flats are a combination of low-lying brushy islands and adjacent mud flats on the Susquehanna River in Lancaster County about three miles south of Columbia and Wrightsville, located just offshore from Washington Boro within the Susquehanna NHA. The flats are highly important to migratory shorebirds, providing essential habitat and resources.

The Conejohela Flats stopover site is a Pennsylvania Game Commission designated propagation area for numerous wetland species and waterfowl. Migrating birds use the river for feeding and the flats for resting. The flats are one of only a handful of dependable sites in Pennsylvania for large numbers and variety of shorebirds. A total of 38 shorebird species has been recorded at this site. The Conejohela Flats hosts up to 17,000+/- migratory shorebirds during migration.

Conejohela Flats History Panel

The Conejohela Flats have been named an Audubon Important Bird Area. Important Bird Areas are distinct areas that provide essential habitat for one or more species of birds in breeding, wintering, or migration. The Conejohela Flats are also listed on the Natural Heritage Area inventory. Natural Heritage Areas are locations of rare, threatened, and endangered species and the highest quality natural areas in Pennsylvania. Information is gathered at these areas with the purpose of providing current, reliable conservation information on biological diversity, protected lands, streams, and other natural resources for planning purposes.

The Conejohela Flats’ connection to the flyway reminds us that the migrating birds visiting these sites connect the lower Susquehanna with the rest of the world, and that we have a shared responsibility to work for their conservation. The Atlantic Flyway is home to a wide variety of ecosystems all reliant on each other.

The Atlantic is the most densely populated of the four flyways and many waterfowl habitats in this region are threatened by development and urban sprawl. Many stopover sites face hardships despite conservation efforts.

The Conejohela Flats are alluvial islands that develop from the forces of erosion and deposition and the building up of large amounts of sediment which alters their shape and size. Major floods from severe weather events can dramatically change islands. Ice during the winter devastatingly carves out large chunks of land and soil altering the landscape. The dredging of river channels, construction of dams, pollution and erosion of soil caused by poor agricultural practices, intensive logging of the watershed, and acid drainage from coal mining has harmed natural areas such as the Conejohela Flats and on a greater scale the health of the Susquehanna River and the Chesapeake Bay.

Efforts have been made in recent years to restore the health of the river and Bay, but much work remains to be done. The operators of Safe Harbor Dam are required by their Federal Energy Regulatory Commission license agreement to not raise the water level of Lake Clarke above a certain set amount so that a percentage of mud flats are exposed from April through October during the shorebird migration period.

Contributions to Cultural Heritage

One of the great things about taking a closer look at our connection to the flyway is that it leads us to think about our own heritage, and how it fits in with larger patterns in history. The term Conejohela is derived from a Native American word meaning “kettle on a long, upright pole.” The Susquehannock were the last known native group to live in this area along the river near present-day Washington Boro. The many islands and rocks were used for hunting and fishing. Dugout canoes aided in hunting and trade on the river.

The geographic location and natural resources made the Susquehanna an ideal location for early settlement. Atlantic Flyway stopover sites like the Conejohela Flats provided greater species diversity, on the river and along its shores. The Atlantic Flyway’s biannual supply of migrating waterfowl to the lower Susquehanna, made it a popular hunting area for Native Americans and European settlers.

The Susquehanna River is not just a major migratory corridor for ducks and geese, it is among the places where modern waterfowl hunting began. Waterfowl have been hunted for food, down, and feathers since prehistoric times. A more modern version of duck hunting began on the east coast during the 1600’s, as European settlers began to arrive. In England, hunting was generally the pursuit of game on land with hounds. Settlers brought primitive firearms and hunted waterfowl with great zeal in the new world. Native Americans honed their skills of luring waterfowl into bow range with handmade decoys. The Native American’s technique of hunting on the water combined with the settler’s powerful firearms yielded a new way of waterfowl hunting on the Susquehanna.

The Susquehanna River and the Conejohela Flats are still a popular and bountiful waterfowl hunting area today. Waterfowl hunting traditions on the Susquehanna River connect outdoorsman with all those who have done so in its rich history: direct ancestors; rough and ragged market hunters; decoy carvers past and present, even the Susquehannock Indians who once canoed the river’s banks.

For generations, the flats provided additional opportunities in the spring and fall for protein and sustenance. The Atlantic Flyway’s consistent migration pattern and abundance of waterfowl facilitated human settlements to grow and thrive along the shores.

Hunting History Panel

 

Learn More

Learn about the birds that use the Conejohela Flats. Click on a bird to go directly to their Audubon page. Check out the songs and calls section that has audio files of each bird!


Bald Eagle

Peregrine Falcon
Tundra Swan Great Blue Heron Whimbrel
Stilt Sandpiper Semipalmated Sandpiper Caspian Tern Black Tern Greater Yellowlegs

Sit back and enjoy the show. A high diversity and abundance of species to enjoy makes the Conejohela Flats among the top-ranking areas in Pennsylvania for bird watching. The flats can be viewed from shore with a pair of binoculars. You’ll likely see many birds soring overhead during your visit.

Want to the see the Flats from above? Hike the Turkey Hill Trail to overlook this important birding area.

Check out the Conejohela Flats Paddle Brochure for a unique way to visit the flats by paddle boat.

Discover and explore other local stopover sites on the Atlantic Flyway in this LancasterOnline article.

To learn more about outdoor heritage and traditions on the Susquehanna River view “A Look Back at Hunting, Fishing, and Trapping on the Susquehanna River” exhibit, on display at the Columbia Crossing River Trail Center through August 2021. https://susqnha.org/hunting-fishing-trapping/

Sources

Atlantic Flyway. (2015, June 25). Retrieved December 18, 2020, from https://www.audubon.org/atlantic-flyway

Birding Locations. (n.d.). Retrieved December 18, 2020, from https://www.pgc.pa.gov/Wildlife/Birding/Pages/BirdingLocations.aspx

Conejohela Flats. (2018, May 10). Retrieved December 18, 2020, from https://www.audubon.org/important-bird-areas/conejohela-flats

Facts & Figures. (n.d.). Retrieved December 18, 2020, from https://www.chesapeakebay.net/discover/facts

Flyway Conservation [PDF]. (n.d.). National Audubon Society. https://www.audubon.org/sites/default/files/documents/ar2011-flywayconservation.pdf

Important Bird Areas [PDF]. (n.d.). National Audubon Society. https://wa.audubon.org/sites/default/files/ibas_policyuse.pdf

Pennsylvania Natural Heritage Program, W. (2008). Natural Heritage Inventory of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania [PDF]. http://www.naturalheritage.state.pa.us/cnai_pdfs/lancaster%20county%20nai%202008%20update%20web.pdf

Story Map Tour. (n.d.). Retrieved December 18, 2020, from https://www.naturalheritage.state.pa.us/Lancaster.aspx

The Susquehanna River. (n.d.). Retrieved December 18, 2020, from https://www.cbf.org/about-the-bay/more-than-just-the-bay/susquehanna-river/index.html

Flyways. (n.d.). Retrieved December 18, 2020, from https://www.fws.gov/birds/management/flyways.php

A Look Back at Hunting, Fishing & Trapping

A Look Back at Hunting, Fishing, & Trapping on the Susquehanna River

Susquehanna National Heritage Area and local historian Lynn Smoker present A Look Back at Hunting, Fishing & Trapping on the Susquehanna River, now on display at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center. The exhibit provides a glimpse into the techniques and tools for capturing wildlife on the Lower Susquehanna River. Smoker has spent years enjoying the river as an avid hunter and fisherman and as a devoted collector of Susquehanna River artifacts. Visitors to this brand-new exhibit will see original and unique tools and artifacts related to hunting, fishing, and trapping, including a locally built duck boat from 1927, along with an array of mounted waterfowl, fish, and furbearing mammals.

Hunting has played a rich and prominent role in American culture. For centuries, hunting was required for survival. Native Americans utilized the animals in and along the river not just to feed their families but for heat, clothing, and shelter. Pioneers settled the region and harvested game as readily as they planted crops. Although the Lower Susquehanna River region transitioned to farming livestock, the hunting tradition stayed ingrained in the culture. These traditions continue to connect people to the raw beauty of the river and all the resources it provides.

The Susquehanna River has remained a sanctuary for a variety of wildlife as it is naturally non-navigable to industrial vessels. Prior to the construction of hydroelectric dams, the Susquehanna River had a rush of migratory fish each spring. Shad swelled up the river sometimes looking like waves in the water. Locals plucked them from the river by the hundreds. Learn about the shad runs, ice fishing, and fishing techniques of generations past.

 

The Susquehanna River is an integral part of the Atlantic Flyway, one of four major North American migratory routes for waterfowl. Pennsylvania hunters annually take good numbers of mallards, wood ducks, and black ducks. Many also experience good action for buffleheads, bluebills, ring-necks, green-winged teal, Canada goose, and snow geese. Hunters typically  decoy, blind hunt, or pass-shoot from open water or on nearby agricultural fields. Learn about the unique design of the Susquehanna River waterfowl decoys and how they have become a celebrated American folk-art tradition.

Furbearing animals like beaver, river otter, marten, and mink were essential to Native Americans especially in trade with Europeans. See these furs and learn about how they were trapped and traded by the Susquehannock, the only native tribe to trade with all four major European colonialists (Dutch, Swede, English and French). For over two centuries, beaver fur was especially desirable for men’s hats. Trapping continues to be a riverfront tradition but is highly regulated as a wildlife management strategy. Modern techniques, sanctioned seasons, and permitting have contributed to the repopulation of beaver and river otter along the Susquehanna River.

The exhibit also explores hunting for bullfrogs and snapper turtle.  Hunters utilized kerosene lights and gigs to bag frogs in the darkness. Snappers were more difficult and dangerous – with a bite that could remove a human finger. Antique snapper traps, gigs, and even recipes are on display.

A Look Back at Hunting, Fishing & Trapping on the Susquehanna River will be on display at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center through August 2021. A series of outdoor, social-distanced lectures are being planned for the spring/summer 2021 to more deeply explore the history surrounding these traditions. Visitors are welcome to come during operating hours: 10 am – 4 pm Tuesday through Saturday and 12 pm – 4 pm on Sundays. Exhibit is free but donations are appreciated.

Outdoor Corps in Columbia

A crew of four amazing young adults from the Pennsylvania Outdoor Corps worked tirelessly in mid-October at Columbia River Park. The Park Expansion Area north of the Veterans Memorial Bridge has been inaccessible and overgrown for years. The area is partially forested and partially meadow. The area is also home to two land piers from the bridge that was burned during the Civil War. In 2019, a park master plan project created designs for the 11-acre expansion area. Amenities like a natural amphitheater, nature playground, pavilion, canal restoration, and loop trails along the river. Many of these projects will take long-term planning and heavy construction. Susquehanna NHA and Columbia River Park Advisory Committee sought inexpensive ways to provide more immediate access so they partnered with Pennsylvania Outdoor Corps.

Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources has a Public Partnership Program that provides municipalities and other non-profits the opportunity to partner with the Outdoor Corps to undertake recreation and conservation projects on non-DCNR public lands on a cost share basis. Crews can do a variety of projects from improving land, trails, and playgrounds to improving waterways and riparian buffers. At Columbia River Park, the crew worked to clear invasive species, extend the loop trail to the river, repair split-rail fence, and lay a trail surface.

The cost of this project was entirely funded by private donations. On behalf of Susquehanna NHA and Columbia River Park Advisory Committee we sincerely thank the Columbia Park Rangers, Mountz & Kreiser, Columbia’s Foresters of America, and all those that donated online to this project. This would not have been possible without the generosity of each donor.

Invasive Species Removal

Japanese knotweed, tree-of-heaven, and other invasive species had been growing unchecked in the area. Spotted lanternflies were covering many of the tree-of-heavens so removal was crucial. Removing these species from the forested area is vital to protecting the native biodiversity and habitat.

Most of the invasive species had spread along the split rail fence and the stone piers. These stone piers are important historical structures that help Susquehanna NHA and others tell many cultural significant stories. From the Civil War burning of the bridge to the Underground Railroad heritage, uncovering and preserving the piers allows for more heritage exploration.

 

Creating the Trail

The River Walk was added to the master plan design to provide a walkway parallel the water from the top of the riverbank. Spectacular sunsets and unique bridge perspectives can be seen along the walkway. In early spring 2020, the Columbia Borough Public Works Department cut that path through the woods. Columbia Crossing Director, Hope Byers, utilized a GIS mapping software to overlay the master plan design over the existing park. Stakes were placed exactly where the ‘River Walk’ is shown on the master plan.

Rendering of River Walk from Master Plan

The 12′ wide trail had an uneven dirt surface that would have quickly become overgrown without a surface. The Outdoor Corps pushed back overgrowth, removed invasive plants, downed trees, and litter throughout the wooded space to prepare the area. The trail surface was a woody mulch provided by the Columbia Borough Public Works Department and was created by grinding the woody waste from residents. There was enough woody mulch to continue the trail passed the stone pier and down to the waterfront by the existing outfall. Four dump truck loads of mulch were spread along the trail to create a welcoming, even experience.

Park Improvements

The crew had a few hours between cleaning up the trail and the first delivery of the mulch and offered to do any small projects around the Columbia River Park. They painted and stained posts of kiosks and signs in the park. They spray painted bicycle stencil on the NW River Trail to help guide riders safely along Route 441. They cleaned out the flower beds and prepared them for winter. They also scrubbed all the mold off the interpretative panels in the park.

Amazing work by a great crew of dedicated, up-and-coming recreation professionals. We are thankful for their hard work and donor’s hard earned dollars. Together they have made Columbia River Park a greener and more interesting place to visit. We invite all of you to visit Columbia River Park and take a stroll through the expansion area. It is accessible by walking behind Chiques Rock Outfitters outpost under the Veterans Memorial Bridge.

 

Reusable Water Bottles Support Local Students

Reusable Water Bottles Support Local Students

As local school districts planned for a very different school year, they faced some unexpected and unprecedented challenges. Columbia Borough School District started its Back-to-School Supply Drive asking for things they never needed before including reusable water bottles. Columbia Borough School District had retrofitted all the water fountains to be water filling stations. Removing the fountains would reduce the chance of spreading COVID-19 and the new fillers can also instill a healthy habit in Columbia’s youth.

As a member of the Superintendent Advisory Group, Hope Byers heard the school district’s call for reusable water bottles and knew Susquehanna National Heritage Area (SNHA) could fulfill the need. As part of managing Columbia Crossing, Hope works with the local community to engage youth in the river’s important cultural and natural assets and encourage good stewardship. COVID-19 had upended the opportunity for spring field trips and fall canoeing excursions.

“We have had to shift so much of our programs and activities to digital, self-guided initiatives that reusable water bottles sounded like a great opportunity to do that again. We couldn’t bring students to the river to engage, explore, and experience its wonders but we can remind them of its importance every day” says Hope Byers.

Hope Byers immediately reached out to SNHA’s long-time partner Lancaster County Solid Waste Authority (LCSWMA) about the project – knowing they would find this unique challenge intriguing. LCSWMA has committed to enhancing the recreational opportunities and quality of life in areas where its facilities are located.  They have two such facilities along the Susquehanna River in Lancaster County: the Lancaster Waste-to-Energy Facility in Bainbridge that combusts waste to make electricity for our community and the Frey Farm Landfill in Manor Township. LCSWMA has made a proactive commitment to the river and its assets for over a decade.

“LCSWMA believes in the importance of being a community partner—both in protecting the environment and public health, but also investing back into the places we serve” says Bob Zorbaugh, LCSWMA’s CEO. “This is needed now, more than ever.”

Providing reusable bottles to the student at Columbia Borough School District fulfilled many goals for SNHA and LCSWMA. First, to encourage reuse and recycling. They chose a 100% Post-Consumer Recycled Plastic Bottle, which helps support the entire recycling lifecycle. The chosen bottles were also made in the United States and come with a sip n’ pour lid with an easy carry handle.

Second, the partners desired the messaging to reflect how the Susquehanna River brings a wonderful synergy to our community. The bottle design uses a word-cluster of blue words flowing by green shoreline. All the blue words highlight the river’s assets and opportunities including trail, bridge, paddle, preserve, overlook, history, and explore. The green shoreline are ways in which LCSWMA (and all of us) can protect and care for the Susquehanna and its surrounding landscapes, including recycling, conservation, stewardship, reuse, sustainability, and collaboration.

Superintendent Tom Strickler said “Columbia Borough School District is very appreciative of SNHA/LCSWMA donation of water bottles for our students.  Demonstrating to students the reuse of plastic in a positive manner is an example to students to recycle.  Also, because of the COVID pandemic, students need bottles these bottles to access water fountains in each school building.  Another very positive example of the positive collaboration between business organizations and Columbia School District.”

Five-hundred bottles were provided to the Columbia Borough School District and distributed to students. Additional bottles are available for purchase from Susquehanna NHA at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center. Pick up a bottle for yourself or to give as a gift. It’s a great way to show your love for the river and your commitment to care for it. All proceeds from reusable water bottles support Columbia Crossing’s educational initiatives. Visit the Center at 41 Walnut Street, Columbia, PA on Tuesdays – Saturdays 10 am to 4 pm or Sundays 12 pm to 4 pm.

Susquehanna NHA Haunted History Guide

SNHA Haunted Heritage Guide

With Albatwitch Day and Halloween right around the corner, SNHA has put together a new map of our favorite haunted places, legends, and strange histories. Using local resources like authors Rick Fisher and Scott Butcher, the map pinpoints strange happenings, creature sightings, and wild tragedies. This map is just in time for spooky season and is perfect for those who want to learn more about things that go bump in the night in the Susquehanna National Heritage AreaThe descriptions and stories are chilling, involving terrifying creatures, and tales of the supernatural and paranormal experiences, combining both the familiar and the bizarre

Paranormal Experiences

Use the map to explore all the Orange Pinpoints for information on local haunted sites. From cold spots to random spirits crying, there’s no shortage of haunted spots in these old river towns. Don’t miss these haunted spots on the map: Haldeman Mansion, Shenk’s Ferry Tunnel, and the Shock’s Graveyard.

Folklore & Legends

Have you heard any local legends? They often evoke strong emotional reactions such as horror, shock, revulsion and humor.  The retelling of legends over time ensures that they become part of public record and explains why they are so well known. The strange thing is that notoriety and disproof do not prevent legends from resurfacing generation after generation. Enjoy some of our favorite local legends indicated by the Black Pinpoints on the map. Be sure to read up on the Albatwitch and Lover’s Leap Legend. 

Tragedies & Odd History

Looking for just the facts? Check out all the Purple Pinpoints on the map for some strange but true stories from the river region. Learn about Marietta’s Gilliland Laboratories and Brownie, the horse that provided enough blood for 1 million tetanus vaccines. If you prefer a good true crime story, check out the Hex Hollow Murders and their connection to the Marietta Witch. Don’t forget to check out the tragedies like the Chickies trolley accident that killed six people or  the Columbia opera house fire of 1947.

Open the map on you smart phone through: http://bit.ly/SNHAHaunted

 

Support Columbia River Park: 2020 Trail Project

Columbia River Park Advisory Committee (CRPAC) has been working to expand River Park beyond the Veteran’s Memorial Bridge. A Master Site Plan for the 10-acre area was created over the course of an 11-month time period and utilized extensive and on-going public engagement throughout the process. In total, more than 1,200 persons participated in the effort. The most popular ideas for historic, cultural, environmental and entertainment features included bridge pier restoration, canal restoration, live outdoor music/performance programming, picnicking, stream restoration and native plant gardens. The final design is visionary riverfront development plan that showcases the convergence of people and nature over thousands of years in a memorable and daring design.

Although this visionary design will take years to complete, the CRPAC is seeking inexpensive and unique ways to make the area more user friendly. Cutting the trail paths created in the design and removing all the invasive species from the forested areas would be a great start. The Pennsylvania Outdoor Corps is a crew that can quickly and professionally complete this project. They have a Public Partnership Program that provides municipalities and other non-profits the opportunity to partner with the Corps to undertake recreation and conservation projects on non-DCNR public lands on a cost share basis.

CRPAC is seeking $3,000 in cost-share needed to pay PA Outdoor Corps to complete this project. Part of the project has been funded by the Columbia Park Rangers as well as Mountz and Kreiser and the Foresters of America. We are so grateful for their support but need your help to make it to $3,000 total.




PROJECT DETAILS:

  • Improve trail paths highlighted in red
    • 10’ – 12’ wide on the primary loop and 6’ – 8’ wide on the auxiliary loops
    • Level the trail surface, add trail surface material
  • Remove invasive species from forest area between PA 462 Bridge & Lock Wall Area

We hope you will consider donating to this small but important project!


Heritage Along the NW River Trail

Heritage Along the NW River Trail

There is no doubt that the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail is the most popular hiking and biking trail in the Susquehanna NHA. In about a month, the trail will be complete from Columbia to Falmouth for a total of 14 miles. The trail offers trips through wooded areas, rolling farmland, and historic river towns. It also has many remnants from centuries of riverfront industry. Quarries, mills, company towns, furnaces, and lumbering dotted the waterfront until the early 19th century. Ferries, canals, and railroads kept the people and resources moving for the whole system to thrive.

Sharing these stories of the river is our mission at Susquehanna NHA. In normal circumstances, guided walks, bike trips or kayak excursions are our favorite ways to share all the amazing history. As more and more people have turned to local outdoor recreation to stay fit and enjoy nature during these trying times, SNHA has sought creative avenues to connect people to all the river has to offer.

We’ve created this custom GoogleMap featuring 36 heritage stops on the 14-mile trail between Columbia and Falmouth. Click on any red marker to see more information. Some stops include series of images including drawings, historic maps, and photographs. Click on the blue markers for parking and trail amenity information.

This map will immerse you in the river stories that most interest you. Whether you’d just to rediscover the NW River Trail in a new way or you want to plan a detailed homeschool adventure, this map will get you moving! You can start from home clicking through stories and then plan your trail excursion. Then take the map with you on your smartphone using your Google Maps Application. Open the map directly to GoogleMaps on your smartphone: bit.ly/NWRTHeritage

 

River Roots: Unique Geology

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resources contributions to our nation’s heritage.


On its journey to the Chesapeake Bay, various rivers, creeks, and streams converge with the Susquehanna as it traverses the terrain. The Susquehanna River is one of the oldest and most important rivers in North America. Flowing 448 miles, the Susquehanna travels through three states: New York, Pennsylvania, and Maryland. The 28,000 square mile watershed is the longest commercially unnavigable river system in North America. The Susquehanna River Corridor provides an excellent glimpse of unique geological land forms. Providing ample opportunity to study a variety of distinct features and examples of geologic processes on display in Lancaster and York Counties.

Geology is everywhere beneath our feet.

The stories of the Susquehanna wind through time, influencing the lives of those who live along its banks and the landscape itself. On its journey, the river provides abundant resources and connects communities, flowing through ancient rock along the way. The Susquehanna is so old that the mountains and valleys formed around it, rather than the river shaping the valleys.  The river has witnessed mountain building and erosion as the land was shaped and then reshaped around it. Geologists have looked at the Susquehanna for explanations of the formation of the East Coast. It has always inspired visitors, many attempting to unlock the secrets of the Susquehanna.

Just like the river that cuts through them, every rock has a story to tell along the way. The geology of the Susquehanna River is a leading factor in its unnavigability. Even during times when other sections of the river were considered navigable, the Lower Susquehanna remained untamed. The river itself never served as a successful commercial waterway because of rapids and other obstructions. Despite many wholehearted attempts throughout history, nature has held its claim to this part of the watershed. Over time our communities and transportation routes have developed upon the sculpted landscapes, preserving undeveloped stretches of beautiful scenery and important resources along the watershed.

Every year visitors flock to the Lower Susquehanna to see the many geological wonders to be found on the river. We’ll focus on just a few of the most notable features found in the region.

Potholes and Sculpted rock in Falmouth

When the Susquehanna is low the rocks seem to come alive as sculpture-like shaped rocks emerge from the water and stretch across the river below the Conewago Falls in Falmouth, Pennsylvania. Discovered during extremely low water, this otherworldly landscape is one of the most expansive pothole fields uncovered in the United States.

When the York Haven dam was completed in 1904, it was the third largest in the world. The dam follows an existing rock ledge, causing it to cross the Susquehanna river at an angle. Here the river drops 19 feet in 1⁄4 mile. It’s not surprising to find changes in rocks in the riverbed wherever you have a waterfall or otherwise rapid movement in the water. The rocks at the foot of the falls range in size and display various smooth, curvaceous shapes that captivate visitors.

The Conewago potholes and the sculpted rocks found here are composed of diabase, a hard igneous rock, the result of hardened magma emerging during continental drift 200 million years ago. Water and rivers are a major agent of erosion, shaping landscapes over time with the power of water and the sediment it is carrying with it. The potholes were formed as a result of the fast-moving water with the combination of sandy sediment creating underwater vortexes to swirl and carve out the round features in the rock. The igneous rock can withstand the weathering from the water, slowly creating the large smooth boulders… but the hard quartz-sand blasting away with tornado like force did a lot of the carving work, creating a truly unique example of erosion and weathering.

Chickies Rock outcrop in Marietta/Columbia

Chickies Ridge is composed of the uplifted Cambrian Chickies Formation, a mapped bedrock unit in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Maryland. It is named for Chickies Rock, a popular rock cliff just north of Columbia along the Susquehanna River. According to the United States Geological Survey (USGS), the summit of the ridge is 587 feet above sea level.

The Chickies Formation is described as a light gray to white, hard, massive quartzite and quartz schist with thin inter-bedded dark slate at the top. Originally the rock was sandstone, but heat and pressure changed the rock into a harder and denser rock. It is a rare metamorphic rock deposit with multiple faults, thrusts, dips, ripples and fossils that can be found throughout the formation. The surrounding rock in the valley was softer compared to the quartzite, leading the softer rock to be weathered and eroded away.

1933 Views of Chickies Rock Anticline

Relative age dating places the Chickies Formation in the Lower Cambrian Period, deposited over 500 million years ago. It was also during this time that the rock was pushed up into an arch. Geologists called this type of fold an anticline.The famous Chickies Rock cliff itself is a classic example. Overlooking the river, Chickies Rock is the largest exposed anticline on the East Coast.

 

Susquehanna “Deeps”

The Susquehanna Gorge formation starts to take its shape south of Columbia, Pa. Below Turkey Hill, the Susquehanna River is funneled to Port Deposit, MD through a deep canyon-like gorge carved into the ancient rocks of the Piedmont. The river is squeezed through the quarter mile gorge while dropping sharply, roughly 6 feet per mile. On the flat bottom of the 40-mile-long gorge are 6 long spoon-shaped depressions, called the Susquehanna Deeps. These deeps first appeared on Latrobe’s map, derived from his 1801 survey.

During the construction of the Holtwood dam in 1909 some of the deep were exposed, prompting more extensive studies of the depths of all 6 of the Susquehanna Deeps. Some of the deeps are over 100 feet deep, their deepest portions extending below sea level.

Learn more about the geology of the Lower Susquehanna

Use the Geologic Guide of the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail (Columbia to Falmouth) to take a geology tour of the area. A great resource to understanding the unique geology of the Lower Susquehanna River along the scenic Northwest Lancaster County River Trail. Available for purchase in our online store or in person at both Columbia Crossing River Trail Center and Zimmerman Center for Heritage.

Want to visit the Conewago Potholes?  They are best viewed when water is low during the late summer and early fall. Parking is available at the Falmouth Access.

Want to visit Chickes Rock? View it from the NW Lancaster County River Trail or stand on top the anticline at Chickies Rock scenic overloook. Parking is available at Chickies Rock Overlook.

Other Resources 

Brubaker, J. H. (2002). Down the Susquehanna to the Chesapeake. University Park, Pa, PA: Pennsylvania State Univ. Press.

Stranahan, S. Q. (1995). Susquehanna, river of dreams. Baltimore, MD: Johns Hopkins Univ. Press.

Jones, J. L. (2020). Geologic Guide of the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail. Glen Rock, PA: Jones Geological Services.

Mathews, E. B. (1917). Submerged “deeps” in the Susquehanna River. Geological Society of America Bulletin, 28(1), 335-346. doi:10.1130/gsab-28-335

Stose, G. W., & Jonas, A. J. (1933). Geology and mineral resources of the Middletown quadrangle, Pennsylvania. 12-15. doi:10.3133/b840

Support the River & its Restaurants with the Picnic Passport

Picnic Passport Campaign starts August 1st!

Support the River & its Restaurants!

Experience the Susquehanna while supporting local businesses and SNHA’s work to connect people to the river and its history. For a minimum gift of $50, you’ll receive a unique, one-of-a-kind Picnic Passport Pack that includes a special guidebook with suggestions for great picnic locations, delicious menu options from area restaurants, and engaging information and stories about the river and its many attractions.

Donate online and pick up at one of our riverfront visitor centers. Donations in the form of check or cash can be given at either the Zimmerman Center or Columbia Crossing. Get your Picnic Passport while supplies last!

 

Though we can’t join you on your outing, we’ll be with you in spirit, as your Picnic Passport package also includes this lovely SNHA-branded picnic blanket, courtesy of Donegal Insurance Group. A free Susquehanna River Water Trail Map & Guide and a variety of restaurant information and coupons. Plus a local sweet treat will complete the package.

We hope you’ll enjoy an excursion on the river this summer while supporting SNHA and local businesses through the Picnic Passport!

 

THANK YOU TO OUR PICNIC PASSPORT SPONSORS

Colony Packaging and Machine
Murphy Dittenhafer Architects
Long Level Marina

C.S. Davidson, Inc.
Fulton Bank
Lucy Kniseley
Jeffery A Gay, CFP©, Branch Manager of Raymond James Financial Services
PPL
Townlively.com/Lancaster County Magazine