Category: Uncategorized

A crew of four amazing young adults from the Pennsylvania Outdoor Corps worked tirelessly in mid-October at Columbia River Park. The Park Expansion Area north of the Veterans Memorial Bridge has been inaccessible and overgrown for years. The area is partially forested and partially meadow. The area is also home to two land piers from the bridge that was burned during the Civil War. In 2019, a park master plan project created designs for the 11-acre expansion area. Amenities like a natural amphitheater, nature playground, pavilion, canal restoration, and loop trails along the river. Many of these projects will take long-term planning and heavy construction. Susquehanna NHA and Columbia River Park Advisory Committee sought inexpensive ways to provide more immediate access so they partnered with Pennsylvania Outdoor Corps.

Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources has a Public Partnership Program that provides municipalities and other non-profits the opportunity to partner with the Outdoor Corps to undertake recreation and conservation projects on non-DCNR public lands on a cost share basis. Crews can do a variety of projects from improving land, trails, and playgrounds to improving waterways and riparian buffers. At Columbia River Park, the crew worked to clear invasive species, extend the loop trail to the river, repair split-rail fence, and lay a trail surface.

The cost of this project was entirely funded by private donations. On behalf of Susquehanna NHA and Columbia River Park Advisory Committee we sincerely thank the Columbia Park Rangers, Mountz & Kreiser, Columbia’s Foresters of America, and all those that donated online to this project. This would not have been possible without the generosity of each donor.

Invasive Species Removal

Japanese knotweed, tree-of-heaven, and other invasive species had been growing unchecked in the area. Spotted lanternflies were covering many of the tree-of-heavens so removal was crucial. Removing these species from the forested area is vital to protecting the native biodiversity and habitat.

Most of the invasive species had spread along the split rail fence and the stone piers. These stone piers are important historical structures that help Susquehanna NHA and others tell many cultural significant stories. From the Civil War burning of the bridge to the Underground Railroad heritage, uncovering and preserving the piers allows for more heritage exploration.

 

Creating the Trail

The River Walk was added to the master plan design to provide a walkway parallel the water from the top of the riverbank. Spectacular sunsets and unique bridge perspectives can be seen along the walkway. In early spring 2020, the Columbia Borough Public Works Department cut that path through the woods. Columbia Crossing Director, Hope Byers, utilized a GIS mapping software to overlay the master plan design over the existing park. Stakes were placed exactly where the ‘River Walk’ is shown on the master plan.

The 12′ wide trail had an uneven dirt surface that would have quickly become overgrown without a surface. The Outdoor Corps pushed back overgrowth, removed invasive plants, downed trees, and litter throughout the wooded space to prepare the area. The trail surface was a woody mulch provided by the Columbia Borough Public Works Department and was created by grinding the woody waste from residents. There was enough woody mulch to continue the trail passed the stone pier and down to the waterfront by the existing outfall. Four dump truck loads of mulch were spread along the trail to create a welcoming, even experience.

Park Improvements

The crew had a few hours between cleaning up the trail and the first delivery of the mulch and offered to do any small projects around the Columbia River Park. They painted and stained posts of kiosks and signs in the park. They spray painted bicycle stencil on the NW River Trail to help guide riders safely along Route 441. They cleaned out the flower beds and prepared them for winter. They also scrubbed all the mold off the interpretative panels in the park.

Amazing work by a great crew of dedicated, up-and-coming recreation professionals. We are thankful for their hard work and donor’s hard earned dollars. Together they have made Columbia River Park a greener and more interesting place to visit. We invite all of you to visit Columbia River Park and take a stroll through the expansion area. It is accessible by walking behind Chiques Rock Outfitters outpost under the Veterans Memorial Bridge.

 

Reusable Water Bottles Support Local Students

As local school districts planned for a very different school year, they faced some unexpected and unprecedented challenges. Columbia Borough School District started its Back-to-School Supply Drive asking for things they never needed before including reusable water bottles. Columbia Borough School District had retrofitted all the water fountains to be water filling stations. Removing the fountains would reduce the chance of spreading COVID-19 and the new fillers can also instill a healthy habit in Columbia’s youth.

As a member of the Superintendent Advisory Group, Hope Byers heard the school district’s call for reusable water bottles and knew Susquehanna National Heritage Area (SNHA) could fulfill the need. As part of managing Columbia Crossing, Hope works with the local community to engage youth in the river’s important cultural and natural assets and encourage good stewardship. COVID-19 had upended the opportunity for spring field trips and fall canoeing excursions.

“We have had to shift so much of our programs and activities to digital, self-guided initiatives that reusable water bottles sounded like a great opportunity to do that again. We couldn’t bring students to the river to engage, explore, and experience its wonders but we can remind them of its importance every day” says Hope Byers.

Hope Byers immediately reached out to SNHA’s long-time partner Lancaster County Solid Waste Authority (LCSWMA) about the project – knowing they would find this unique challenge intriguing. LCSWMA has committed to enhancing the recreational opportunities and quality of life in areas where its facilities are located.  They have two such facilities along the Susquehanna River in Lancaster County: the Lancaster Waste-to-Energy Facility in Bainbridge that combusts waste to make electricity for our community and the Frey Farm Landfill in Manor Township. LCSWMA has made a proactive commitment to the river and its assets for over a decade.

“LCSWMA believes in the importance of being a community partner—both in protecting the environment and public health, but also investing back into the places we serve” says Bob Zorbaugh, LCSWMA’s CEO. “This is needed now, more than ever.”

Providing reusable bottles to the student at Columbia Borough School District fulfilled many goals for SNHA and LCSWMA. First, to encourage reuse and recycling. They chose a 100% Post-Consumer Recycled Plastic Bottle, which helps support the entire recycling lifecycle. The chosen bottles were also made in the United States and come with a sip n’ pour lid with an easy carry handle.

Second, the partners desired the messaging to reflect how the Susquehanna River brings a wonderful synergy to our community. The bottle design uses a word-cluster of blue words flowing by green shoreline. All the blue words highlight the river’s assets and opportunities including trail, bridge, paddle, preserve, overlook, history, and explore. The green shoreline are ways in which LCSWMA (and all of us) can protect and care for the Susquehanna and its surrounding landscapes, including recycling, conservation, stewardship, reuse, sustainability, and collaboration.

Superintendent Tom Strickler said “Columbia Borough School District is very appreciative of SNHA/LCSWMA donation of water bottles for our students.  Demonstrating to students the reuse of plastic in a positive manner is an example to students to recycle.  Also, because of the COVID pandemic, students need bottles these bottles to access water fountains in each school building.  Another very positive example of the positive collaboration between business organizations and Columbia School District.”

Five-hundred bottles were provided to the Columbia Borough School District and distributed to students. Additional bottles are available for purchase from Susquehanna NHA at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center. Pick up a bottle for yourself or to give as a gift. It’s a great way to show your love for the river and your commitment to care for it. All proceeds from reusable water bottles support Columbia Crossing’s educational initiatives. Visit the Center at 41 Walnut Street, Columbia, PA on Tuesdays – Saturdays 10 am to 4 pm or Sundays 12 pm to 4 pm.

SNHA Haunted Heritage Guide

With Albatwitch Day and Halloween right around the corner, SNHA has put together a new map of our favorite haunted places, legends, and strange histories. Using local resources like authors Rick Fisher and Scott Butcher, the map pinpoints strange happenings, creature sightings, and wild tragedies. This map is just in time for spooky season and is perfect for those who want to learn more about things that go bump in the night in the Susquehanna National Heritage Area. The descriptions and stories are chilling, involving terrifying creatures, and tales of the supernatural and paranormal experiences, combining both the familiar and the bizarre. 

Paranormal Experiences

Use the map to explore all the Orange Pinpoints for information on local haunted sites. From cold spots to random spirits crying, there’s no shortage of haunted spots in these old river towns. Don’t miss these haunted spots on the map: Haldeman Mansion, Shenk’s Ferry Tunnel, and the Shock’s Graveyard.

Folklore & Legends

Have you heard any local legends? They often evoke strong emotional reactions such as horror, shock, revulsion and humor.  The retelling of legends over time ensures that they become part of public record and explains why they are so well known. The strange thing is that notoriety and disproof do not prevent legends from resurfacing generation after generation. Enjoy some of our favorite local legends indicated by the Black Pinpoints on the map. Be sure to read up on the Albatwitch and Lover’s Leap Legend. 

Tragedies & Odd History

Looking for just the facts? Check out all the Purple Pinpoints on the map for some strange but true stories from the river region. Learn about Marietta’s Gilliland Laboratories and Brownie, the horse that provided enough blood for 1 million tetanus vaccines. If you prefer a good true crime story, check out the Hex Hollow Murders and their connection to the Marietta Witch. Don’t forget to check out the tragedies like the Chickies trolley accident that killed six people or  the Columbia opera house fire of 1947.

Open the map on you smart phone through: http://bit.ly/SNHAHaunted

 

Columbia River Park Advisory Committee (CRPAC) has been working to expand River Park beyond the Veteran’s Memorial Bridge. A Master Site Plan for the 10-acre area was created over the course of an 11-month time period and utilized extensive and on-going public engagement throughout the process. In total, more than 1,200 persons participated in the effort. The most popular ideas for historic, cultural, environmental and entertainment features included bridge pier restoration, canal restoration, live outdoor music/performance programming, picnicking, stream restoration and native plant gardens. The final design is visionary riverfront development plan that showcases the convergence of people and nature over thousands of years in a memorable and daring design.

Although this visionary design will take years to complete, the CRPAC is seeking inexpensive and unique ways to make the area more user friendly. Cutting the trail paths created in the design and removing all the invasive species from the forested areas would be a great start. The Pennsylvania Outdoor Corps is a crew that can quickly and professionally complete this project. They have a Public Partnership Program that provides municipalities and other non-profits the opportunity to partner with the Corps to undertake recreation and conservation projects on non-DCNR public lands on a cost share basis.

CRPAC is seeking $3,000 in cost-share needed to pay PA Outdoor Corps to complete this project. Part of the project has been funded by the Columbia Park Rangers as well as Mountz and Kreiser and the Foresters of America. We are so grateful for their support but need your help to make it to $3,000 total.

PROJECT DETAILS:

• Improve trail paths highlighted in red
  • 10’ – 12’ wide on the primary loop and 6’ – 8’ wide on the auxiliary loops
  • Level the trail surface, add trail surface material
• Remove invasive species from forest area between PA 462 Bridge & Lock Wall Area

We hope you will consider donating to this small but important project!

Heritage Along the NW River Trail

There is no doubt that the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail is the most popular hiking and biking trail in the Susquehanna NHA. In about a month, the trail will be complete from Columbia to Falmouth for a total of 14 miles. The trail offers trips through wooded areas, rolling farmland, and historic river towns. It also has many remnants from centuries of riverfront industry. Quarries, mills, company towns, furnaces, and lumbering dotted the waterfront until the early 19th century. Ferries, canals, and railroads kept the people and resources moving for the whole system to thrive.

Sharing these stories of the river is our mission at Susquehanna NHA. In normal circumstances, guided walks, bike trips or kayak excursions are our favorite ways to share all the amazing history. As more and more people have turned to local outdoor recreation to stay fit and enjoy nature during these trying times, SNHA has sought creative avenues to connect people to all the river has to offer.

We’ve created this custom GoogleMap featuring 36 heritage stops on the 14-mile trail between Columbia and Falmouth. Click on any red marker to see more information. Some stops include series of images including drawings, historic maps, and photographs. Click on the blue markers for parking and trail amenity information.

This map will immerse you in the river stories that most interest you. Whether you’d just to rediscover the NW River Trail in a new way or you want to plan a detailed homeschool adventure, this map will get you moving! You can start from home clicking through stories and then plan your trail excursion. Then take the map with you on your smartphone using your Google Maps Application. Open the map directly to GoogleMaps on your smartphone: bit.ly/NWRTHeritage

 

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resources contributions to our nation’s heritage.

RiverRoots Heritage Blog

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On its journey to the Chesapeake Bay, various rivers, creeks, and streams converge with the Susquehanna as it traverses the terrain. The Susquehanna River is one of the oldest and most important rivers in North America. Flowing 448 miles, the Susquehanna travels through three states: New York, Pennsylvania, and Maryland. The 28,000 square mile watershed is the longest commercially unnavigable river system in North America. The Susquehanna River Corridor provides an excellent glimpse of unique geological land forms. Providing ample opportunity to study a variety of distinct features and examples of geologic processes on display in Lancaster and York Counties.

Geology is everywhere beneath our feet.

The stories of the Susquehanna wind through time, influencing the lives of those who live along its banks and the landscape itself. On its journey, the river provides abundant resources and connects communities, flowing through ancient rock along the way. The Susquehanna is so old that the mountains and valleys formed around it, rather than the river shaping the valleys.  The river has witnessed mountain building and erosion as the land was shaped and then reshaped around it. Geologists have looked at the Susquehanna for explanations of the formation of the East Coast. It has always inspired visitors, many attempting to unlock the secrets of the Susquehanna.

Just like the river that cuts through them, every rock has a story to tell along the way. The geology of the Susquehanna River is a leading factor in its unnavigability. Even during times when other sections of the river were considered navigable, the Lower Susquehanna remained untamed. The river itself never served as a successful commercial waterway because of rapids and other obstructions. Despite many wholehearted attempts throughout history, nature has held its claim to this part of the watershed. Over time our communities and transportation routes have developed upon the sculpted landscapes, preserving undeveloped stretches of beautiful scenery and important resources along the watershed.

Every year visitors flock to the Lower Susquehanna to see the many geological wonders to be found on the river. We’ll focus on just a few of the most notable features found in the region.

Potholes and Sculpted rock in Falmouth

When the Susquehanna is low the rocks seem to come alive as sculpture-like shaped rocks emerge from the water and stretch across the river below the Conewago Falls in Falmouth, Pennsylvania. Discovered during extremely low water, this otherworldly landscape is one of the most expansive pothole fields uncovered in the United States.

When the York Haven dam was completed in 1904, it was the third largest in the world. The dam follows an existing rock ledge, causing it to cross the Susquehanna river at an angle. Here the river drops 19 feet in 1⁄4 mile. It’s not surprising to find changes in rocks in the riverbed wherever you have a waterfall or otherwise rapid movement in the water. The rocks at the foot of the falls range in size and display various smooth, curvaceous shapes that captivate visitors.

The Conewago potholes and the sculpted rocks found here are composed of diabase, a hard igneous rock, the result of hardened magma emerging during continental drift 200 million years ago. Water and rivers are a major agent of erosion, shaping landscapes over time with the power of water and the sediment it is carrying with it. The potholes were formed as a result of the fast-moving water with the combination of sandy sediment creating underwater vortexes to swirl and carve out the round features in the rock. The igneous rock can withstand the weathering from the water, slowly creating the large smooth boulders… but the hard quartz-sand blasting away with tornado like force did a lot of the carving work, creating a truly unique example of erosion and weathering.

Chickies Rock outcrop in Marietta/Columbia

Chickies Ridge is composed of the uplifted Cambrian Chickies Formation, a mapped bedrock unit in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, and Maryland. It is named for Chickies Rock, a popular rock cliff just north of Columbia along the Susquehanna River. According to the United States Geological Survey (USGS), the summit of the ridge is 587 feet above sea level.

The Chickies Formation is described as a light gray to white, hard, massive quartzite and quartz schist with thin inter-bedded dark slate at the top. Originally the rock was sandstone, but heat and pressure changed the rock into a harder and denser rock. It is a rare metamorphic rock deposit with multiple faults, thrusts, dips, ripples and fossils that can be found throughout the formation. The surrounding rock in the valley was softer compared to the quartzite, leading the softer rock to be weathered and eroded away.

Relative age dating places the Chickies Formation in the Lower Cambrian Period, deposited over 500 million years ago. It was also during this time that the rock was pushed up into an arch. Geologists called this type of fold an anticline.The famous Chickies Rock cliff itself is a classic example. Overlooking the river, Chickies Rock is the largest exposed anticline on the East Coast.

 

Susquehanna “Deeps”

The Susquehanna Gorge formation starts to take its shape south of Columbia, Pa. Below Turkey Hill, the Susquehanna River is funneled to Port Deposit, MD through a deep canyon-like gorge carved into the ancient rocks of the Piedmont. The river is squeezed through the quarter mile gorge while dropping sharply, roughly 6 feet per mile. On the flat bottom of the 40-mile-long gorge are 6 long spoon-shaped depressions, called the Susquehanna Deeps. These deeps first appeared on Latrobe’s map, derived from his 1801 survey.

During the construction of the Holtwood dam in 1909 some of the deep were exposed, prompting more extensive studies of the depths of all 6 of the Susquehanna Deeps. Some of the deeps are over 100 feet deep, their deepest portions extending below sea level.

Learn more about the geology of the Lower Susquehanna

Use the Geologic Guide of the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail (Columbia to Falmouth) to take a geology tour of the area. A great resource to understanding the unique geology of the Lower Susquehanna River along the scenic Northwest Lancaster County River Trail. Available for purchase in our online store or in person at both Columbia Crossing River Trail Center and Zimmerman Center for Heritage.

Want to visit the Conewago Potholes?  They are best viewed when water is low during the late summer and early fall. Parking is available at the Falmouth Access.

Want to visit Chickes Rock? View it from the NW Lancaster County River Trail or stand on top the anticline at Chickies Rock scenic overloook. Parking is available at Chickies Rock Overlook.

Other Resources 

Brubaker, J. H. (2002). Down the Susquehanna to the Chesapeake. University Park, Pa, PA: Pennsylvania State Univ. Press.

Stranahan, S. Q. (1995). Susquehanna, river of dreams. Baltimore, MD: Johns Hopkins Univ. Press.

Jones, J. L. (2020). Geologic Guide of the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail. Glen Rock, PA: Jones Geological Services.

Mathews, E. B. (1917). Submerged “deeps” in the Susquehanna River. Geological Society of America Bulletin, 28(1), 335-346. doi:10.1130/gsab-28-335

Stose, G. W., & Jonas, A. J. (1933). Geology and mineral resources of the Middletown quadrangle, Pennsylvania. 12-15. doi:10.3133/b840

Picnic Passport Campaign starts August 1st!

Support the River & its Restaurants!

Experience the Susquehanna while supporting local businesses and SNHA’s work to connect people to the river and its history. For a minimum gift of $50, you’ll receive a unique, one-of-a-kind Picnic Passport Pack that includes a special guidebook with suggestions for great picnic locations, delicious menu options from area restaurants, and engaging information and stories about the river and its many attractions.

Donate online and pick up at one of our riverfront visitor centers. Donations in the form of check or cash can be given at either the Zimmerman Center or Columbia Crossing. Get your Picnic Passport while supplies last!

 

THANK YOU TO OUR PICNIC PASSPORT SPONSORS

Colony Packaging and Machine Murphy Dittenhafer Architects Long Level Marina
C.S. Davidson, Inc. Fulton Bank Lucy Kniseley Jeffery A Gay, CFP©, Branch Manager of Raymond James Financial Services PPL Townlively.com/Lancaster County Magazine

Summer Bucket List

Susquehanna NHA in partnership with Borough of Columbia’s Parks and Recreation Committee has launched a 2020 Columbia Summer Bucket List. We have all been struggling to keep busy and find new fun during the global pandemic. The Columbia Summer Bucket List is here to keep you exploring whether you live in town or your visiting for the day. It’s the perfect time to discover the unique experiences available right here! With over 35 activities featuring nearly 50 Columbia organizations, businesses and landmarks there’s something for everyone!

Keep Your Kids Busy

Columbia has wealth of free and low cost adventures for all types and tastes. We focused on activities that were readily available and safe during the pandemic. Discover new parts of town, beautiful murals, and silly activities. It’s perfect for families. Like #13: Make a train noise at the Columbia & Reading Railroad Car at Manor & 4th Street. Or #3: Pretend to milk the Turkey Hill Experience Cow.

Explore Local History

Dive into Columbia’s history while you’re here. The Bucket List features historic sites and markers like #24: Find the Lincoln Highway marker on Chestnut Street. Pop into the historic district to stroll down the cobblestones to the Wright’s Ferry Mansion. Check off number #21: with a stop at Zion Hill Cemetery where you can learn about Columbia’s African American residents who fought in the Civil War.

Support Small Businesses

It’s also designed to support the Columbia business community. The Bucket List features all kinds of businesses in Columbia that you may not know existed. From the comic book store to the quaint gift shops, you’ll be pleasantly surprised at the variety of shops. Shopping small has a big impact so pick up some Susquehanna glassware, old-fashioned penny candy, or a new-to-you antique while you’re in town. Each stop checks off a bucket list item.

Eat Your Heart Out

Fill your belly too! Columbia Bucket List features old-fashioned favorites like the classic Shifter sandwich to our new obsession: the savory Soul Roll at Cafe 301. Pick your favorite cheesesteak and try some new brews on your quest to conquer the whole list. It’s impossible to leave town hungry!

Download your Bucket List and get started! Or pick up a paper copy at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center: Open Wednesday – Sunday 10 am – 5 pm.

Download 2020 Columbia Bucket List!

Prizes!

Track your efforts by snapping photos of as many of our summer activities in Columbia as you can and share them to social media using #2020ColumbiaBucketList. Complete a short form on the back of your bucket list and return it Columbia Crossing River Trails Center to claim your prize!

 

For those that complete at least 15 activities, you will receive this unique sticker! This vintage style crimson and gold sticker captures Columbia’s colors and historic Veterans Memorial Bridge. These 3″ circles are durable, weather resistant, premium vinyl stickers. Slap one on your car, bike, kayak, water bottle or laptop and it will last!

 

 

For those that complete at least 30 activities, you will earn the sticker as well as a voucher for a small ice cream cone at Hinkle’s Restaurant. Hinkle’s will scoop your choice of vanilla or chocolate into a cone or dish. Enjoy it as you walk around town or devour it at their classic Ice Parlor & Soda Fountain.

 

 

Thanks to Hinkle’s Restaurant for supporting the Columbia Bucket List. We also thank Sticker Mule who has great weatherproof stickers.  The Columbia Summer Bucket List was created by the Borough of Columbia’s Park and Recreation Committee in partnership with Susquehanna National Heritage Area. Working together to share Columbia’s historic, scenic, and recreational stories and experiences with residents and visitors and support our local business community.

 

Digital Submission Form:

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resources contributions to our nation’s heritage.

RiverRoots Heritage Blog

This month SNHA is uncovering the details of Benjamin Henry Latrobe’s 18-foot long survey of the Lower Susquehanna River. Although Benjamin Latrobe is remembered as an accomplished architect, in the Susquehanna NHA we honor him for his amazing map of the Lower Susquehanna.

Susquehanna, The Navigable?

Near the turn of the 19th century, water-based transportation was essential to civilization. With no automobiles or trains, land transportation was limited to horse and foot. Across the new United States, surveyors and map makers were seeking to find connective water routes – like the Lewis & Clark Expedition that started in 1803. The Susquehanna’s connection to the Chesapeake Bay made it an obvious target for commerce.

The Lower Susquehanna was swift and rocky. The Susquehanna was only navigable downriver to Columbia, even during spring freshets. There wheat, beef, coal, lumber, and other goods were unloaded and carried via wagon to Philadelphia. Downriver from Columbia, craggy metamorphic ridges rise up between 200 and 500 feet above the water in what is called the Susquehanna Gorge. At the bottom of the gorge, the river was dominated by huge rocks protruding above the waterline. This is no small obstable to overcome as the gorge runs from Turkey Hill to Port Deposit, a distance of nearly thirty miles.

Benjamin’s Survey

In 1801, Pennsylvania Governor Thomas McKean appointed Latrobe surveyor and assistant to his uncle, Frederick Antes, as authorized by a 1799 state statute providing for navigation improvements to the Lower Susquehanna River south of Columbia. Latrobe and Antes represented Pennsylvania in a joint venture with the Susquehanna Canal Company, a Maryland entity building a canal from the Pennsylvania border to tidewater.

With his uncle’s death in September 1801, Latrobe assumed control of the Pennsylvania portion of the project, working with his Maryland partners. Latrobe surveyed the river in October-November 1801 with the help of two assistant surveyors, chainbearers, axemen and canoemen. He completed his map over the winter, including a proposed new route for navigating the rocky river. Latrobe presented his work to the governor in Lancaster (then Pennsylvania’s capital) in March 1802 and lobbied the legislature for project funding. His efforts were successful, and the navigation improvements were completed soon after.

Latrobe’s Susquehanna survey map represents a rare profile of the physical features of a region just beginning to feel the impact of agricultural and commercial development. This landscape has changed drastically since Latrobe’s time, with 60 percent of the river below Columbia now submerged by reservoirs from three 20th century dams. Latrobe’s original 18-foot long survey of the Susquehanna was before Congress for consideration of internal improvements when it was destroyed during the Capitol’s burning by the British in 1814. His personal copy of the 1801 survey, shown below, now resides in the collections of the Maryland Historical Society. A full-size reproduction of this survey copy is on public display at the waterfront pavilion of Susquehanna NHA’s Zimmerman Center for Heritage.

 

Benjamin’s Map

 

 

The river rapids shown by Latrobe reveal that the river’s steepest gradient is near its mouth. Such conditions exist in most of the great African rivers, but they are not found in any other river on our Atlantic seaboard. These circumstances made upstream travel almost impossible. Even downstream travel was made only by arks and rafts which were usually dismantled at their destination and sold as lumber. Latrobe sought a route to take boats northbound but there were many challenges.

Most narrow part of the southern half of the Susquehanna River is at McCall’s Ferry, modern day York Furnace. In Latrobe’s survey it was listed as 16 perches, or 264 feet wide. In 1815, when a bridge was built across the river there it was 360 feet long. After the Holtwood Dam was constructed, the river was widened by the backed-up water, but the spot is still less than ¼ mile wide or 1320 feet. Near this narrow spot in the river were also many deeps.

At a place known as The Neck, Latrobe dropped a 180-foot line with a lead weight, and it didn’t hit the bottom. The weight also didn’t hit bottom along the eastern shore at McCall’s Ferry. During the construction of the Hotlwood Dam (1909), Conowingo Dam (1925), and Safe Harbor Dam (1930), many deep gashes were found in the riverbed. These underwater canyons descend below the surface as much as 200 feet and stretch up to two miles in length. Latrobe was likely puzzled by his observation of such deep water since the levels elsewhere were very low. Latrobe was able to walk across the river south of Turkey Hill. He wrote “I walked dry shod across the rocks from Savers bottom to the channel on the Eastern side, which was then about 100 feet wide.” In the end, Latrobe laid a channel to allow southbound traffic in all seasons. Even with blasting obstructions and clearing a narrow channel, the Susquehanna was still very hazardous.

Enduring Features

Use the slider image above to compare Latrobe’s map to modern Google Earth. Latrobe’s ability to capture the shape and scale of the river with accuracy is impressive. Although many of the river’s islands shown by Latrobe were submerged because of the construction of the hydroelectric dams, some of the islands and their names still endure. South of the Norman Wood Bridge is the Bear Islands. Latrobe described their features as “They are high Rocky masses of great extent, covered chiefly with pines” that “rose from 20 to 30 feet above the water.” Just north of the Pequea Creek outfall is Weise Island. On Latrobe’s Map this is labeled Stoner’s Island and has two small structures on it that may have been part of the local ferry operation. Mud Island near Columbia remains the same while Reed Island, south of Pequea, has shrunk dramatically. Many of the islands are now under the river’s flow which has skewed our vision of the river’s natural state.

The sheer cliffs and peaks along the riverfront also remain. These are helpful to orient the 1802 map with modern maps or other historic maps. Latrobe identified:

• Neal’s Point now Hawk Point Overlook
• Neck Mountain now Pinnacle Overlook
• House Rock now House Rock Overlook
• Raven’s Nest now Safe Harbor Overlook
• Turkey Hill now Turkey Hill Overlook

Although the goal of the survey was to increase navigability of the Lower Susquehanna to the tidewater some of the notes and features expand our understanding of early American life. Latrobe identifies over two dozen riverfront homesteads and farms. There are six ferries listed as well as three sawmills. There’s also a slate quarry near Peach Bottom and a fishery north of Pequea Creek.  One enduring structure is “Col. Tritt’s” home, now the Zimmerman Center for Heritage, which still stands as shown on Latrobe’s map, just below “Tritt’s Islands.” Latrobe also made pencil sketches and watercolors along his journey, capturing a scenic natural area just beginning to develop as a corridor of culture and commerce.

Views of Susquehanna from foot of falls above Columbia	George Stoner’s on Pequea Creek, Burkhalters Ferry
The Susquehanna River from Turkey Hill	Anderson’s Mill Below Wright’s Ferry, Susquehanna River

Latrobe’s survey resulted in the blasting of rock to create a 40-foot-wide channel but it would be thirty years until canal companies would make the river easily navigable. The Susquehanna & Tidewater Canal finally carried cargo on the west side of the river between Havre de Grace, Maryland and Wrightsville, Pennsylvania in 1840. Boats were then towed along the Columbia-Wrightsville Bridge and entered the Pennsylvania Main Line Canal which traveled up the east side of the river to north of Harrisburg. The advancement of land transportation via railroads would eventually end the age of canals and with it the quest to make the Susquehanna navigable.

The Latrobe map was pulled from the archives and used by Pennsylvania Water & Power Company as it prepared for construction of the Holtwood Dam in 1909. The map served as a guide to subdue the river just as it had been 100 years earlier. Today, the Latrobe map shows us the power of people to affect the environment, as well as the power of nature to resist those changes. The Susquehanna Gorge has retained its mysterious deeps, its sheer cliffs, and its rocky bottom despite two centuries of human manipulation.

 

Learn More

Brubaker, J., 2002. Down The Susquehanna To The Chesapeake. University Park, Pa: Pennsylvania State Univ. Press.

Myers, Richard. 1985. “River’s Deep Gorge Creates Isolation Keystone Ramblings“. The Morning Call.

Ruminski, Clayton. “Pennsylvania Power & Light Company and Latrobe’s 1801 Susquehanna River Survey,” September 12, 2018. https://www.hagley.org

Stranahan, S., 1995. Susquehanna, River Of Dreams. Baltimore: Johns Hopkins University Press.

View a full size copy of the Latrobe map at the Zimmerman Center for Heritage Riverfront Pavilion Pavilion. Dive into a digital version here.

View the Susquehanna! Go to the Overlooks noted on Latrobe’s map and see what the river looks like today. Can you imagine where all the rocks, rapids, and homesteads were 200 years ago?

 

COVID-19 UPDATE: June 19, 2020

With Lancaster and York Counties entering new phases of PA’s COVID-19 response, Susquehanna National Heritage Area is re-opening our two visitor facilities along the Susquehanna River and launching our second season of River Discovery Boat Tours. York County entered the GREEN phase on June 12th and Lancaster County enters the GREEN phase on June 26th . Here’s what to expect for each facility and our boat tours during re-opening:

 

ZIMMERMAN CENTER FOR HERITAGE – SNHA owns and manages this historic 18^th century riverfront home south of Wrightsville in York County, with visitor services, exhibits, and galleries. With York County in  GREEN, the Zimmerman Center re-opened to the public on FRIDAY, JUNE 19^TH with regular hours, Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-4pm. New procedures are in place for visitors and staff to comply with CDC and PA Department of Health guidelines. All inside visitors to the building are required to sign-in with contact information. Self-guided tours of the first floor are offered, with no full-house tours or inside programs. Masks are required for visitors and staff inside the building, with disposable masks available.

 

COLUMBIA CROSSING RIVER TRAILS CENTER  – SNHA manages this riverfront visitor education center in Columbia River Park in Lancaster County for the Borough of Columbia, including visitor services, maps and guides, exhibits, programs, and facility rentals. With Lancaster County entering the GREEN phase, Columbia Crossing re-opens to the public on FRIDAY, JUNE 26^th, with revised hours, Wednesday-Sunday, 10am-5pm. Restrooms are open with outside access, 6am-6pm daily.  All activities will comply with CDC and PA Department of Health guidelines. Masks are required for visitors and staff inside the building, with disposable masks available.

 

RIVER DISCOVERY BOAT TOURS – SNHA will launch our 2nd season of free pontoon boat tours from the Zimmerman Center on Friday, July 3^rd. Tours will be offered Friday/Saturday/Sunday and frequency increased from 3 to 4 per day. Registration will be limited to 8 passengers per tour instead of 10 to allow for social distancing. The boat and equipment will be sanitized between tours. Similar to last year, pre-registration will be required online, but no walk-ons will be permitted to fill no-show seats. All check-in will be done outside in the waterfront pavilion, with Covid-19 screening questions, temperature checks, and face masks required. Disposable masks will be provided to passengers as needed.
Online registration for boat tours will be available at this website link starting MONDAY, JUNE 15^th: https://susqnha.org/programs/boat-tours/

 

We look forward to welcoming the public back to the Zimmerman Center, Columbia Crossing, and our River Discovery Boat Tours. For further updates and other information about SNHA and our facilities, programs, and projects, please visit our website and social media pages at the following links:

https://susqnha.org/

https://www.facebook.com/SusquehannaNationalHeritageArea/

https://www.facebook.com/columbiapacrossing/