RiverRoots: Stories of the Conestoga River: Victorian Progress

RiverRoots: Stories of the Conestoga River

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.

Susquehanna NHA is pleased to introduce guest blog writer, photographer and author of The Conestoga River: A History, Donald Kautz. This is the third blog post in a four part series on the Conestoga River by Mr. Kautz.

RiverRoots Heritage Blog


Lancaster’s Historic Waterway

This is the third article in the series in which we are taking a journey through time on the historic waters of the Conestoga River. In the first article, I covered the conditions of the Conestoga prior to European settlement. We looked at how the Conestoga watershed looked very different than it does today. The second article covered the colonial settlement era. We saw how the river provided transportation for commercial endeavors from the fur trade to the slack-water canal.

In this installment, we will cover the Victorian era. During this time, the river ceased being a means of transportation, but recreation became the primary focus. And, as the population grew, the urban areas depended on the river as a source of water and as a means for waste disposal.

Ice

Ever since colonial times, the river was a source of ice for the city and surrounding area. In the winter, when the river was frozen, men would cut the ice into large blocks using iron saws made for the purpose. The ice blocks were stored in icehouses that lined the riverbank. These houses could be as much as three stories tall and were packed with ice from floor to ceiling. The ice blocks were covered in straw and sawdust to prevent melting. Throughout the year, but especially during the summer months, the ice man would make his way through the back alleys with his horse-drawn cart bringing ice to the people who had iceboxes in their homes. Sometimes the boxes were built into the wall with an outside opening so the ice man could refill the box without needing to enter the home. In other cases, the delivery man had to enter the kitchen with a block of ice in his tongs to be placed into the family’s icebox. When manufactured ice became available in 1895, the need to harvest ice from the river declined. Household refrigeration started to become available in 1925. Today, we simply need to push a button on the front of our refrigerator door to fill our cup with crushed ice.

Bringing Water to Lancaster City

For the first one hundred plus years after the founding of the town of Lancaster, its inhabitants had to rely on wells, pumps and springs for their water supply. But as the city grew, these became inadequate to serve the population. As early as 1789, General Hand, who was serving as burgess at the time, lamented about the millions of gallons of water going to “waste” in the Conestoga River every year. But the prospect of bringing water from the river up to the town was considered an impossibility at that time.

Lancaster Water Plant

Thirty-six years later, the state legislature authorized the formation of the Lancaster Water Company and granted the company to sell stock. Not much happened until 1831 when the legislature also granted the city the right to levy taxes to support the water works. The city hired engineer W.B. Mitchell to survey the possible options, and finally in 1836, the city built its first water plant. The plant was located at the site of an existing grist mill and dam southeast of the city at the lower end of City Mill Road. A water wheel powered a series of pumps that carried water from the river up to a newly built reservoir on King Street next to the county jail. On Washington’s birthday, February 21, 1837, operations began, and water from the Conestoga began to flow through water plugs in the city. Wastewater returned through various conduits back into the Conestoga, including any materials that were added to the mix in the process.

The abundance of water inspired some of the more well-to-do citizens to install bathtubs in their homes. The first to do so was Jacob Demuth, who installed a tub in 1839. Soon after, there were found to be eight more tubs in city homes. At this, the city council assessed a bathtub tax of three dollars annually. Nine out of ten doctors of that time were unconvinced that such frequent bathing was healthy. The tenth doctor, Dr. John Light Atlee, begged to differ, and installed a tub in his home in 1849. Even though the cholera outbreaks of 1832 and 1854 were blamed on “misty clouds of putrefying organic matter decaying along the streams and canals,” Dr. Atlee believed the disease might be caused by some tiny organisms he could see in his microscope. He was proven correct thirty years later when germ theory became better understood.

In 1888, the old water plant at the city mill was replaced with a new pumping station along the Conestoga River near the railroad bridge on Grofftown Road. Two large steam pumps operated with a daily capacity of eleven million gallons. These were placed on a reserve basis in 1929, when eight electrically driven and three gasoline-powered pumps were installed. The current water-treatment plant located along the Susquehanna River in Columbia was constructed in the 1950s. The Grofftown Road plant was removed in 1976. A small reserve pumping station is located across the river next to Conestoga Pines Park.

Recreation

Following the Civil War into the beginning of the twentieth century, various kinds of recreation became popular. Lancaster City had parks on both sides of the city, Wabank, Gable’s Woods, and Maple Grove on the West side, and Conestoga Park, Williamson Park, Rocky Springs and Peoples’ Bathing Resort on the East.

In 1854, a group of investors from Lancaster purchased two tracts of land at lock #3 of the Conestoga Navigation Company, which included an old tavern, several mills and a miller’s house and approximately sixteen acres of land. They replaced the old tavern with a grand hotel that they named “The Wabank House”. The house measured 105 feet long and 45 feet wide and had four stories and an attic. It boasted one hundred rooms and a dining room that could seat three hundred persons. Forty “colored” waiters were employed to serve the many guests. The entire structure was surrounded with wide verandas on the first, second and third floors.

In spite of its great popularity among the Lancaster elite, the hotel was not profitable. The mill and other properties not related to the hotel were sold to the miller Daniel Overholtzer in 1855. The board listed the hotel property for sale in 1857, but there were no takers. The company went into foreclosure, and the hotel came into the possession of Mr. Overholtzer. Overholtzer sold the hotel building to Samuel Lichtenthaler of Lititz in 1863. Lichtenthaler was the owner of the Lititz Springs Hotel. He disassembled the Wabank House and transported it to Lititz. It took one hundred four-horse wagonloads to transport it. Lichtenthaler reconstructed the hotel on the square of Lititz adjacent to the Lititz Springs Hotel. The two buildings were connected by a corridor and were together known as the Lititz Springs Hotel. The new addition opened on July 4, 1864. The hotel operated at that location for a decade until it was destroyed by fire on July 31, 1873.

Not far from Wabank, on a hill above the Conestoga sat the hotel at Gable’s Woods Park. Built by Jacob Gable sometime in the late 19th century, the park was a popular picnic spot into the early 20th century. The old hotel was torn down in the 1970s. Aaron Summy opened West End Park on the Little Conestoga in 1899. The park earned the name “Maple Grove” because of the many Maple Trees on the property. In 1912, Ralph Coho converted the park into an amusement park including a roller rink,  a dance hall, a roller coaster, and a large swimming pool. The amusement park closed in the early 20th century.

Conestoga Park was located on the west side of the river just below Witmer’s Bridge. In 1890, David Burkholder laid out a driveway along the Conestoga that was called the Conestoga Boulevard. The boulevard was a mile and a third in length and was designed for driving horses and carriages for pleasure rides. Racing and bicycles were prohibited. The park included a boat house along the riverbank and a large theatre at the top of the hill that was the site of many performances. Trolleys operated by the Pennsylvania Traction Company, as it was called at that time, provided transportation from the city to a loading platform near the theatre. The park was popular for picnics, and rowboats were available for boating on the Conestoga. Regattas were held regularly, for which boat owners would decorate their crafts and thousands of people lined both sides of the riverbank cheering for their favorite.

Rocky Springs began as a hotel in 1855. Samuel Demuth purchased the estate in 1882 and enlarged the park. Demuth Park became a popular picnicking destination.  John B. Peoples leased the park in 1890 and added various amusements including bath houses and a sandy beach.

In 1896, Peoples built his own resort across the river from Rocky Springs. Peoples Bathing Resort was a popular facility for swimming and boating. A large water slide located at the northern end of the park provided thrills for the more adventurous. The resort included a skating rink that was alleged to be the largest in the county. A miniature electric railway provided transportation between the resort and Conestoga Park.

Meanwhile, Rocky Springs came under new ownership and Herman Griffiths and Emma Wiener were installed as the managers. Griffiths and Wiener added a steam merry-go-round and a dance pavilion. They also built a theatre and a roller rink. The Jack Rabbit roller coaster was built in 1918 and a large swimming pool added in 1921. The park installed the famous Rocky Springs Dentzel carousel in 1924. The Wildcat roller coaster replaced the Jack Rabbit in 1928. The Conestoga Traction Company operated trolley service to the park on a two-line track that ran from the city down through the Sunnyside Peninsula.

Steamboats on the Conestoga

At the entrance to Conestoga Park, just below Witmer’s bridge were the riverboat landings for three paddlewheel steamboats. Rocky Springs operated the Emma Belle and the Evelyn B. The Emma Belle and Evelyn B. each sported a 50 HP steam engine powering stern paddle wheels. John Peoples owned and operated the Lady Gay. The Lady Gay had a 20HP engine. The three steamboats operated on the approximately one and a half mile stretch between Witmer’s Bridge and the City Mill dam just below Peoples’ Park. In fact, it was the City Mill dam that raised the water level high enough for the boats to navigate safely.

A roundtrip ticket from Conestoga Park to Rocky Springs on the Emma Belle or Evelyn B was 10 cents. Mr. Peoples charged only 5 cents on the Lady Gay for a round trip to his park and provided a free shuttle ride across the river to Rocky Springs. The proprietor of Rocky Springs sued Peoples claiming he was using the Rocky Springs dock without permission. The court ruled that since the dock was floating in the river, it was public property.

The Evelyn B. paddleboat owned by Herman Griffiths operated on the Conestoga between Bridgeport and Rocky Springs Park.

The Evelyn B. was destroyed in a flood in 1902. The Emma Belle was put into dry dock soon after. Peoples Resort had to close because raw sewage was making the river unfit for bathing. The Lady Gay made her last voyage in 1915.

Electric Power Generation

Slackwater Power Plant

In 1897, the newly formed Lancaster Electric, Heat & Power Company purchased the water rights at the Wabank, Slackwater, and Rock Hill dams. These dams had previously served as locks for the Conestoga Navigation Company. The Wabank plant supplied electricity for Lancaster and Pequea Townships. Electricity generated at the Slackwater plant was transmitted to Engleside to provide power to Lancaster City. The Rock Hill plant provided power for Manor and Conestoga Townships. Electrical generation on the Conestoga River continued for about forty years, closing in 1946.

From the first European settlers until the first part of the twentieth century, the prevailing philosophy was to harness the rivers and other natural resources to produce profit and prosperity to the growing population. But after World War II, it became apparent that this philosophy was causing irreparable damage to those natural resources. In the next, and last, installment in this series of articles, we will look at those impacts and what is being done to mitigate them along Lancaster’s Historic Waterway.

The next article in this series will delve into 20th Century Struggles and 21st Century Dreams of the Conestoga River. If you would like a copy of my book, you may order one on my website at www.donaldkautz.com.

Meet the Guest Writer Donald Kautz

I grew up and still live among the beautiful farmland and rolling hills of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. I have been interested in photography my entire life (starting with a Kodak Brownie box camera) but have gotten more serious with the hobby after my three children have become adults. I am a retired software engineer which probably explains why I enjoy the technical aspects of digital photography post processing as much as capturing the images in the first place. I enjoy landscape photography and love to photograph scenes around Lancaster County, focusing on the Conestoga River and the remaining water-powered grist mills that may still be found around the county. I am interested in the history of Lancaster County and have written a book about the Conestoga River.

RiverRoots: Stories of the Conestoga River:
Colonial Settlement

RiverRoots: Stories of the Conestoga River

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.

Susquehanna NHA is pleased to introduce guest blog writer, photographer and author of The Conestoga River: A History, Donald Kautz. This is the second blog post in a four part series on the Conestoga River by Mr. Kautz.

RiverRoots Heritage Blog


Lancaster’s Historic Waterway

This is the second article in the series in which we are taking a journey through time on the historic waters of the Conestoga River. In the first article, I covered the conditions of the Conestoga prior to European settlement. We looked at how the Conestoga watershed looked very different than it does today. And we looked briefly at some of the early inhabitants of the area and how the river provided their sustenance.

In this installment, we will cover the colonial settlement era. We will look at how those settlers utilized the resources of the river for their sustenance and how farming and industry developed along the waterway, providing great prosperity to its new inhabitants.

Fur Trade

During the seventeenth century continuing into the eighteenth, the fur trade was big business among the Swedish, Dutch, French, and English traders. Many people wanted to get in on the action. There was intense competition between the governors of New York, Pennsylvania, and Maryland, each wanting to keep their ports busy.

The fur traders were an adventurous lot, rugged outdoorsmen who spent half their time bartering with the Natives in the wilderness and the other half bartering with the European settlers who wanted their goods. In many cases, the first white people with whom the natives came into close contact were the fur traders. The natives’ impression of white people was often formed by these encounters, for better or worse. During their work, the traders often learned the native languages and, in some cases, married native women. This made the traders valuable as interpreters when the colonial governments needed to hold conferences with the native tribes.

Two of these early traders who set up shop along the Conestoga were the Quaker Brothers, Edmund and John Cartlidge. Their trading post was at the mouth of the Conestoga, near the Susquehanna. The brothers got into some trouble in 1722 when they murdered a Seneca Indian. They were arrested and jailed in Philadelphia until they were eventually released at the urging of the Iroquois leadership.

Some other prominent fur traders in the area were Martin Chartier, who had a trading post at the mouth of the Pequea Creek and Ann Letort with her son James. Anne’s name is preserved in the village of Letort in Manor Township. Another famous French trader was Peter Bezaillion. Peter and his brother Richard operated a trading post near the mouth of the Conoy creek in 1721. He built a wagon road from this trading post on the Susquehanna to his headquarters in Compass. This road, called “Peter’s Road”, formed the northern boundaries of Manheim and Upper Leacock Townships. The road forded the Conestoga at the point where those two townships meet, just below the conjunction with the Cocalico Creek.

The Indians supplied the traders with animal pelts of various kinds, deer pelts for leather, and the furred animals like mink, otter, and the highly coveted beaver. In exchange for these items, the traders provided articles like glass beads, small brass bells on chains, copper kettles, finger rings, clay tobacco pipes, tobacco boxes, vermillion, iron hatchets and hoes, knives, fishhooks, pewter spoons, thimbles, mirrors, sheet copper for making arrow tips. Some of the more expensive items were flintlock rifles, bullet molds and lead, clothing known as “match coats”, the heavy cloth called “duffel”, and, of course, Jamaican rum.

These goods were carried over paths formed from a combination of water and overland trails. One such trail was the “Conestoga Path” that ran from the Susquehanna, up the Conestoga to the east branch. Then a short portage brought them to the French Creek which in turn led to the Schuylkill River and down to Philadelphia on the Delaware.

Mills

William Penn invited members of his own religious affiliation, the Quakers, and others who were experiencing religious persecution in Europe to settle in his colony. Among those immigrants were a group of anabaptists from Germany called “Mennonists”.  Seven Mennonist families settled in the Pequea Valley just south of the Conestoga in 1711. Another larger group of Mennonite families arrived six years later and purchased land adjacent to the first group. The Germans cleared the land and added to their farms a little more acreage each year. As the new settlers arrived, built their homes and cleared land for their farms, sawmills were in great demand to turn the native timber into lumber for building. As the farms became established, it soon became necessary to build mills to process the grain. Until the first mill was built on the Mill Stream, it was necessary to make a long arduous trip by wagon to the nearest mills on the Brandywine. The Pennsylvania proprietors, to encourage someone to build a mill in the Susquehanna watershed, offered a grant of 1,000 acres at a reduced rate if a mill was built on the property before May 1, 1714.

The earliest record of a mill in what would later become Lancaster County was built by a native of Saxony, Germany named Christopher Schlegel (Schleagel), who built a mill on the Mill Creek in about 1714. Schlegel requested a land grant, taking advantage of the discount offer, and James Logan’s surveyor Isaac Taylor marked out 700 acres for him along a tributary of the Conestoga Creek (later named the Mill Stream) not far from the land granted to the recent Mennonist settlers. Apparently, Schlegel did not like the land that Taylor surveyed for him and built his mill on a site about two miles away. On November 15, 1716, Schlegel sent a letter to the proprietors, asking to take up 1,000 acres around his mill “when the Indians leave”.

The Pennsylvania proprietors were apparently unimpressed, because on October 1, 1717, Edmund Cartlidge, the fur trader, purchased the land that Schlegel had chosen for himself, and ejected Schlegel from the property. Cartlidge then built his own mill on the property. The site of this mill was two miles south of Lancaster, north-east of Willow Street at the spot where Golf Road comes nearest to the Mill Creek. This would place it near to where Evan’s Candy is located today.

Lancaster County’s mills were an extremely important part of the commerce of the county in the early days. An 1840 census showed 383 mills in the county, which amounts to one mill for every two and a half square miles. They were hubs of the local economy. Thirty-seven of those were situated on the Conestoga.

Iron Furnaces and Forges

During the 18th and early 19th centuries, southeastern Pennsylvania was a major center of American iron production. The first furnaces were situated along waterways because they needed the waterpower to drive the forges and hammers. The Hammer Creek in Lancaster County was so named because of the sound of the hammers operating in the valley.

Peter Grubb built Hopewell Forge on the Hammer Creek in 1740. He built Cornwall Furnace a few years later. Cornwall is in Lebanon County today, but it was part of Lancaster County then. Grubb also built the Mount Hope Furnace on the Chiques Creek around 1784. Martic Forge opened around 1751 on the Pequea Creek. James Old opened Poole Forge on the Conestoga and Speedwell Forge on the Hammer Creek. The Spring Grove and Windsor forges were also operating on the Conestoga by the end of the 18th century. In fact, in the early 1800s, the upper Conestoga was providing power for three forges, three grist mills, and a hemp mill.

Windsor Forge Mansion

Rifle Manufacturing

Lancaster County was also known for its rifle makers. Martin Meylin manufactured the famous Pennsylvania Rifle near Willow Street in 1745. The barrels were sometimes bored by hand, a long and arduous process, but production could be significantly improved if you could utilize waterpower. James Bryson operated a boring mill on the Mill Stream, not far from Meylin’s gun shop. According to tradition, this mill produced barrels for the Lancaster gunmaker, William Henry. This site was later converted to a grist mill by John Eshleman. Andreas Kauffman operated a boring mill on the Little Conestoga downstream from the Abbeyville/Maple Grove mill around 1770. Henry Leman built his boring mill on the Conestoga near Pinetown in 1834.

Conestoga Navigation Company

By the beginning of the 19th century, Baltimore had become a ready market for agricultural goods and could be reached by natural and modified waterways, thereby reducing the traffic from Lancaster to Philadelphia.  In 1817, the State of New York began a major project to connect its eastern ports with Lake Erie in the west. That caused a stir in Pennsylvania, which then began a major push to build canals across the state, fueled by fears that New York would threaten commerce in Philadelphia. On March 27, 1824, Governor Andrew Shulze appointed the first three Pennsylvania canal commissioners and charged them with the task of finding a viable canal route connecting Lancaster and Chester Counties to Pittsburgh. The “canal fever” ran high among Pennsylvania business leaders during this time.

Lancaster’s leaders were in search of ways to improve the local economy. As a result, on May 15, 1824, at a public meeting in Lancaster, a committee was formed to petition the state legislature to grant rights to incorporate a company to make the waters of the Conestoga navigable. The petition was granted on March 3, 1825. This act provided for the “erection of the Conestogo Navigation Company and the construction of its plant.” Adam Reigart and others should have the power to make a navigation canal or slack-water navigation and towpath on and along the Conestoga River and to set up locks and dams fit for navigation. Landowners should be compensated for any damages caused by erecting the dams or by the swelling water. The company would be able to sell or rent surplus water for works.

In a slack-water system, dams were constructed at intervals across the width of the river. This resulted in the water piling up behind the dams to form “ponds.” The dams were spaced such that the water behind one dam would back up all the way to the next dam upstream. This usually amounted to several miles of navigable water wide enough for animal-powered packet boats to be pulled along the side while steam-powered craft could navigate the center of the channel. Locks were constructed as an integral part of each dam.

The Conestoga Navigation Company initially built nine locks and dams between Lancaster City and Safe Harbor. The company opened for business in the spring of 1829. Goods shipped on the canal could reach Baltimore weeks ahead of the overland route and with less damages in transit. Business improved each year until an ice flood in the winter of 1832 damaged many of the dams. The business did not recover from the blow. Edward Coleman bought the company at sheriff’s sale in 1833. Coleman rebuilt the locks and reduced the number of dams from nine to seven. After the Susquehanna and Tidewater Canal opened in 1840, Coleman used a crib dam across the Susquehanna to produce enough draught such that canal boats could be towed from the mouth of the Conestoga to an entry port on the canal. The Conestoga Navigation operated until about 1856, when the railroads became the preferred method for transporting freight.

Conestoga Navigation Company Rates (1848)

As we can see, Pennsylvania’s waterways served a prominent role in the development of the country. Such use of the waterways came with a cost, however. In the next article in this series, we will look at the Victorian Era, and how the rivers became centers of recreational activities.

The next article in this series will delve into Victorian Era progress of the Conestoga’s history. If you would like a copy of my book, you may order one on my website at www.donaldkautz.com.

Meet the Guest Writer Donald Kautz

I grew up and still live among the beautiful farmland and rolling hills of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. I have been interested in photography my entire life (starting with a Kodak Brownie box camera) but have gotten more serious with the hobby after my three children have become adults. I am a retired software engineer which probably explains why I enjoy the technical aspects of digital photography post processing as much as capturing the images in the first place. I enjoy landscape photography and love to photograph scenes around Lancaster County, focusing on the Conestoga River and the remaining water-powered grist mills that may still be found around the county. I am interested in the history of Lancaster County and have written a book about the Conestoga River.

RiverRoots: Stories of the Conestoga River: Presettlement Conditions

RiverRoots: Stories of the Conestoga River

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.

Susquehanna NHA is pleased to introduce guest blog writer, photographer and author of The Conestoga River: A History, Donald Kautz. This is the first blog post in a four part series on the Conestoga River by Mr. Kautz.

RiverRoots Heritage Blog


Lancaster’s Historic Waterway

The Conestoga River meanders for sixty miles through the fertile farmlands of Lancaster County. From early Native American inhabitants to the European settlers who made the Conestoga Valley their home, the river has provided sustenance and transportation for generations. Victorian era resorts and hotels were built along the river, providing new recreational activities as steam power drove innovative forms of transportation and waterpower. As the region developed and the population grew, the river paid a heavy price in increased pollution from sewage runoff and industry. Conservation efforts toward the end of the twentieth century through the present day have restored the river’s beauty and recreational reputation.

This is the first article in a series of four which are taken from my book, “The Conestoga River: A History”. In these articles we will take a journey through time on the historic waters of the Conestoga River.

Conestoga Watershed

The Conestoga River is a 61.6-mile-long tributary of the Susquehanna River. It originates in Berks County but most of its length is in Lancaster County. It enters the Susquehanna at Safe Harbor just below the Safe Harbor dam. Originally known as the Conestogoe or Conestogo, its name is derived from the Iroquoian word “Kanastoge” meaning “place of the immersed pole”.

The Conestoga and its tributaries drain approximately 217 square miles. The principal tributaries of the Conestoga are Cedar Creek, Muddy Creek, Cocalico Creek, the Lititz Run, the Mill Creek, and the Little Conestoga. The Conestoga has an “inverted” profile, meaning that it starts out with a gentle slope and slope increases as it approaches its mouth. The Conestoga and its sister stream the Pequea Creek form a double watershed system. The Conestoga and Pequea with their tributaries drain most of Lancaster County.

The headwaters of the Conestoga are made up of two branches. The West branch begins in a pond on the edge of the Pennsylvania State Games Lands #52 north of the Pennsylvania Turnpike, north-east of Morgantown. The East Branch begins somewhere just north of Elverson. The two branches join at a point along Mill Road just south of Morgantown.

Headwaters of the Conestoga West Branch

Creek or River?

Before we go any further, we must ask the question, “Is the Conestoga a creek or is it a river?” People who grew up along its banks and fished or swam in its waters often prefer to call it the Conestoga Creek. Or simply, the “crick”. However, the signs along the major highways that cross the Conestoga label it the “Conestoga River”. And recently, the Conestoga was nominated for 2023 River of the Year by The Pennsylvania Organization for Watersheds and Rivers. So, which is it? A creek or a river?

(The River of the Year designation for 2023 was awarded to the North Branch of the Susquehanna.)

In 1824, Captain Ephraim Beach surveyed the Conestoga from Lancaster to Safe Harbor for the purpose of making the Conestoga navigable. Beach produced a map indicating the plans for a system of locks and canals that would enable canal boats to make the trip from Lancaster to the Susquehanna. This map may be viewed at the Lancaster Historical Society. The legend on that map calls it the “Conestogo River”. Of course, Captain Beach was promoting the Conestoga as a commercial waterway, so the river designation seemed more appropriate for that purpose.

In 1912, Frank R. Diffenderfer, who was an associate editor of the Lancaster New Era newspaper and one of the founders of the Lancaster Historical Society, wrote an impassioned plea on behalf of the Conestoga River. Here is an excerpt from his “Plea for the Conestoga River” that was read before the Lancaster Historical Society:

“One of the most beautiful streams in the world flows quietly through the green meadows and along the sunny braes of Lancaster County for a distance of more than sixty miles, draining a territory 315 square miles in area, affording endless themes of beauty to the brush of the painter and the fancy of the poet.”

“It is the Conestoga ‘Creek’ to most of our people ‘and it is nothing more’; yet it is a river, just as truly as are some of the most noted streams of the world which have been called rivers for thousands of years.”

“Our Conestoga has borne its present misnomer long enough. Let no member of this Society ever again speak or write about it as a ‘creek.’ Call it what it really is, and what it deserves to be called – The CONESTOGA RIVER.”

 

Earl F. Rebman, founder of the Conestoga Valley Association, fought for 28 years to fulfill Diffenderfer’s plea. Finally, in April of 1974, Rebman’s dream was fulfilled when the United States Board of Geographic Names approved the name “Conestoga River” for federal use. The main branch of the Conestoga including the East and West branches at its source were included in the approval. The Little Conestoga, however, remains a creek. (Lancaster New Era, April 24, 1974)

Presettlement Conditions

Prior to the arrival of European settlers in the 17th century, the Conestoga Valley was much different than it is today. The valley was more like a swamp than the single channel that we know today. The valley was made up of numerous, interconnected streams that flowed around islands of vegetation. The system was resistant to flooding because the flood plains were broad and marshy, and the underlying soil was porous. The historic floodplain was full of vegetation with root systems that held the soils in place even during high water flow.

Presettlement Conditions: Floodplain Restoration Book, Land Studies Inc.

The area is part of the Pennsylvania Piedmont lowlands. This area was once covered with a shallow sea. Various species of shellfish lived and died in the sea, their discarded shells building up to create great sheets of limestone. Eventually tectonic forces pushed up to form the Appalachian Mountains. Over time, these mountains eroded forming deep, rich soil in the alluvial valleys. This, in turn, enabled great forests to grow and the forests provided the habitat for abundant wildlife. Bear, deer, elk, foxes, otters, raccoons, wildcats, wolves, and the much-coveted beaver all made their home in the forests and wetlands of the Conestoga Valley.

The Conestogas

The Susquehannock Indians appeared along the Susquehanna c1550 at about the time that an earlier group who are known as the Shenk’s Ferry people disappeared. It is unknown whether the earlier group died of an illness or if the Susquehannocks conquered or assimilated them. The Susquehannocks were mostly nomadic hunters and fisherman who would stay in one area only so long as the game and fish remained plentiful. They were not very friendly to members of other tribes and would regularly send out war parties to attack the hunters from other tribes who happened into their territory. By 1608, the Susquehannocks had a town and stockade fort on the shore of the Susquehanna at the foot of Turkey Hill.

“Native Lands”, Oil on Canvas, 2021 by Carol Oldenburg

In the summer of 1608, Captain John Smith encountered a hunting party of Susquehannocks at the head of the Chesapeake Bay. Captain Smith described them as more muscular and larger in stature than other natives that he had seen. Smith said, “They seemed like giants, and were the strangest people in all these countries, both in language and attire; their language well becomes their proportions, sounding ‘from them as a voice in a vault. The Susquehannocks were called “Minquas” (treacherous) by the Delaware (Lenape).

In the mid-1600s, pressure from the Dutch Trading Company forced the Senecas south into Susquehannock territory. This resulted in violent inter-tribal conflicts. The Senecas fought the Susquehannocks as far south as the Chesepeake Bay. The Susquehannocks pleaded for assistance from the English colonial settlements but did not receive the level of aid that they needed to ward off the Seneca attacks. By the late 17th century, the ranks of the Susquehannocks were severely decimated and they no longer held the importance that they once commanded. Soon after this, the remnant left their fort on the river shore and moved to their town on Turkey Hill about four miles further up the hill. Once established at this new location they became known as the Conestogoes. Here William Penn granted them 500 acres of land that became known as “the manor”, today it is Penn Manor Township.

Fast forward a hundred years or so into the mid-18th century and you find the European settlers engaging in their own inter-tribal conflicts. The English went to war with the French over territorial disputes. A few of the native peoples joined up with the French under the vague promise that they might be able to recover their land if the English were defeated. The Conestogoes had become extremely destitute by this time, many of them had little clothes to wear. They went from farm to farm begging for food or bartering for it with reed baskets and brooms. Alcoholism was rampant. When the white inhabitants of the upper Susquehanna, having fled their homes, came into Lancaster County and Philadelphia, the suspicions against the Conestogos grew with each new story of the atrocities that were committed upriver. The Conestogos at this time were afraid to leave the manor even to hunt for food.

The French and Indian war ended in 1758 but an uprising by chief Pontiac in 1763 caused animosities to rise again against the small tribe. On December 13, 1763, a company of men from Paxtang, Hanover, and Donegal headed to Conestoga Indian Town to destroy the place and its people. Early the next morning they attacked the town, killed, and scalped four men and two women and burned the town. A boy escaped and alerted the manager of the tragedy. The Lancaster authorities gathered up the remaining Conestogos (fourteen in number) and housed them in the city workhouse for their protection. But then on December 27, about fifty or sixty men armed with rifles and tomahawks appeared suddenly in the town about 2:00 in the afternoon, broke into the workhouse and killed the fourteen Conestogos in the courtyard behind the jail. The Conestogos are no more, but their memory remains in the river that bears their name.

The next article in this series will delve into the colonial settlement period of the Conestoga’s history. If you would like a copy of my book, you may order one on my website at www.donaldkautz.com.

Meet the Guest Writer Donald Kautz

I grew up and still live among the beautiful farmland and rolling hills of Lancaster County, Pennsylvania. I have been interested in photography my entire life (starting with a Kodak Brownie box camera) but have gotten more serious with the hobby after my three children have become adults. I am a retired software engineer which probably explains why I enjoy the technical aspects of digital photography post processing as much as capturing the images in the first place. I enjoy landscape photography and love to photograph scenes around Lancaster County, focusing on the Conestoga River and the remaining water-powered grist mills that may still be found around the county. I am interested in the history of Lancaster County and have written a book about the Conestoga River.

For Further Reading:

Brubaker, Jack, Massacre of the Conestogas, The History Press, 2010

Minderhout, David J., Native Americans in the Susquehanna River Valley, Past and Present, Bucknell University Press, 2013

Merrell, James H., Into the American Woods, W. W. Horton & Company, 1999

RiverRoots: Felling Penn’s Woods

RiverRoots: Felling Penn’s Woods

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.

RiverRoots Heritage Blog


Long before canals or railroads, lumber rafts transported cut timber, coal, pig iron, and farm produce through Pennsylvania. The abundance of streams and rivers throughout the state brought the lumber industry to all regions of the Commonwealth. In the early 1800s, 2,500 to 3,000 arks and rafts traveled from upstate Pennsylvania from April through October. The Susquehanna River powered the lumber industry from the colonial era to the industrial revolution.

Felling Penn’s Woods

Trees covered more than 90% of Pennsylvania’s 28,692,480 acres when European settlers first laid eyes on Penn’s Woods. The white pines, oaks, and hemlocks were so tall and dense that Europeans thought that the forests were endless. The most sought-after timber was the Pennsylvania white pine. They were ideal for ships’ masts since those trees grew straight and resisted warping and wood rot. Nothing was more valuable than a blemish-free, 200-foot-tall white pine. They were so treasured that governments passed laws to protect them.

Pennsylvania provided the natural resources that fueled the country’s rapid expansion. In the 1680s, the sounds of axes and crosscut saws echoed across the forests of Pennsylvania as the colony’s first sawmills drove up the demand for lumber. Lumbermen felled trees along the Susquehanna River’s West and North Branches in the winter. The frozen ground provided a packed surface on which the logs could be more easily dragged by man or animal. Moving logs up and down mountains with primitive tools and methods was difficult and dangerous. It was not uncommon for heavy loads to skid out of control. Loggers made equipment like sleds and ox yokes onsite. The transport mode available to move the logs to market limited the amount of timber that lumbermen could harvest.

Once out of the woods, lumbermen hauled the logs to streams and rivers, where they stored the wood until the spring thaw. When the waterways flooded, the logs could float down to the sawmills. The same tributaries powered early sawmills by utilizing water wheels or elastic poles. When the water froze in winter, the sawmills couldn’t operate. Employment in the logging industry was as cyclical as the agricultural field. Winter was for felling trees, spring was for transporting logs, and summer and fall were for milling and finishing the lumber. This provided year-round employment for lumbermen.

White pine logs were very buoyant and, therefore, valued for rafts and boatmaking. They could float even while carrying a heavy load. Eastern hemlocks were also popular. Hemlock bark is rich in the tannic acid used in leather tanneries, and the wood was suitable lumber. Workers carefully bound white pine logs together with pliant hickory sticks, which left no marks or damage on the valuable wood. They squared off the timber with axes and fastened them together with oak or hickory pins into floating platforms. The log platforms ranged in length from 30-80 feet.

Most of the timber cut in Pennsylvania floated down waterways via rafts made of logs lashed together, with oars attached at either end. A crew used long oars, under the guidance of an experienced pilot, to maneuver down the winding tributaries that eventually flowed into the Susquehanna River.

Types of Rafts

Spar Raft: Made by lashing tall, straight tree trunks together. These rafts could be 80-100 feet long, and many still had bark attached.

Timber Raft: Made of squared or timbered logs that had been partially milled into square lumber, much the shape of a railroad tie.

Lumber Raft: This raft consisted of logs that had already been sawed into lumber at a sawmill and could be sold as ready-to-use lumber.

River Ark: These had flat bottoms and were constructed in such a manner as to allow the transport of cargo such as pig iron, coal, farm produce, and other commodities from northern Pennsylvania.

Running the River

The lumber industry depended on Pennsylvania’s three main river systems: the Delaware River in the east, the Susquehanna through the center, and the Allegheny and Monongahela Rivers, which converge to form the Ohio River, in the west. The Susquehanna River became a highway for timber rafts. By 1796, rafts from both the north and west branch were heading downstream in droves. The west branch was often seen jammed with thousands of floating platforms in the spring. Wood arks transporting cargo downstream from New York were much more common on the north branch.

It was not uncommon for these rafts and their crews to float 300 or more miles downriver. Some rafts passed the river towns heading to Havre de Grace or Port Deposit, and from there on to southern markets. Locally, workers offloaded cargo and disassembled rafts, then sold the logs to one of the many sawmills. Marietta, Columbia, Wrightsville, and Washington Boro were popular places to off-load timber rafts, because the river was more treacherous below Turkey Hill. These river towns grew into industrial towns along the Susquehanna River.

One newspaper from the mid-1800s reported, “if a person were to stand on the banks of the Susquehanna at Washington Boro, look north to Columbia, then south to Turkey Hill, they would see a river clogged with arks and rafts anchored and ready to offload their cargo.”

The swift and dangerous waters below Turkey Hill kept many vessels from reaching the Chesapeake Bay. Local newspapers published a few accounts describing the beauty and the dangers of rafting down the Susquehanna. Daily Evening Express published,On a Raft” on April 29, 1867. The Intelligencer Lancaster published a story called “Journey Down the Susquehanna.” on August 18, 1875. Lancaster New Era shared on April 21, 1887, “Down the River on a Raft.” Despite the dangerous last leg of the journey, some men rode logs downriver to sell them for shipbuilding in the Chesapeake Bay.

The men who journeyed downriver on the fresh freshets of spring knew they were in for a daring adventure. Pennsylvania raftsmen were cowboys of the river. The rafting was risky and, by nature, rivermen were reckless. Raftsmen needed an abundance of determination, brawn, and skill to deliver timber to market in the early 1800s.

It took thousands of men, braving the icy waters, to keep the millions of board feet moving downstream. The noise of raftsmen mixed with melodies from banjos, fiddles, and harmonicas and filled the air during their rough journey downriver. When they arrived in southern Pennsylvania towns, they engaged in rowdy behavior. Drinking, gambling, and fighting were commonplace, as lumber payouts meant the local taverns would be busy.

“… the rude structure shoots by… manned with a singing and saucy crew, who dodge the branches of trees, and work their steering paddles with an adroitness and nonchalance…”

—Nathaniel Parker Willis, describing Susquehanna log rafting circa 1840.

At the peak of the rafting days, several hotels opened in the river towns of Marietta, Columbia, and Washington Boro. Of course, there were “parlor houses,” “bed-houses,” and “disorderly hotels” where the ladies offered companionship. Raftsman spent a night or two, then returned home. Some raftsman brought their horse for the return trip, but most returned on foot, walking hundreds of miles back upriver.

The period of 1750-1850 was the most active time of travel on the Susquehanna River. In the early 1800s, from April through October, 2,500 to 3,000 arks and rafts traveled from upstate Pennsylvania. They brought coal, lumber, pig iron, and farm produce of all varieties. The rafting industry reached its peak by 1840. The ever-expanding railroad soon put the local canals out of business.

The advent of steam power in the early 1800s rapidly expanded Pennsylvania’s lumber industry. However, the Williamsport boom really powered the industry. In the fall of 1849, construction began on the massive Williamsport boom. The boom was a series of piers anchored into the riverbed that caught the floating timber. Its purpose was to bring the sawmills to the logs rather than the logs to the mills. Steam sawmills lined the riverbanks near the boom to process the hundreds of thousands of logs it held more efficiently. Williamsport became a boom town for lumber as men made their fortunes and workers flooded North and West to clear the hills.

By the 1850s, the boom’s capacity increased to 300 million board feet to keep up with Pennsylvania’s burgeoning iron furnace production. Come springtime, there were so many logs packed into the boom that you could walk on them from one side of the Susquehanna to the other. Within a short time, Williamsport became known as the “lumber capital of the world” because of its thriving lumber industry. After the Civil War broke out in 1861, the nation needed more lumber than ever. According to the Bureau of the Census, lumber production in the United States grew from 3 hundred million board feet in 1799 to 8 billion board feet in 1859, and to more than 12 billion by 1869.

The boom kept the timber industry thriving on the Susquehanna for almost 70 years. By the late 1880s, geared steam engines revolutionized the Pennsylvania timber industry by giving logging companies access to vast stands of previously inaccessible old-growth forests. It was cheaper to bring logs to Williamsport by rail than by river. Timber barons built railroads into Pennsylvania’s northern woods and used portable sawmills to cut wood on-site and haul it directly to the market. With the railroad, loggers no longer had to wait until the spring thaw.

No longer dependent upon streams and rivers to float the logs to towns with mills, logging became a year-round operation. The more intensive logging accelerated the cutting of trees, leaving behind a scarred and barren landscape. Soon, little remained of the great forests of northern Pennsylvania. A flood in 1889 broke the Williamsport boom and washed masses of lumber down the river.

Rise of the Conservation Era

As Pennsylvania’s forests faded, so did the importance of the lumber industry in Williamsport. The collapse of the boom cemented its decline. When the boom broke, it set hundreds of millions of board feet of lumber loose on the Susquehanna. Temporary sawmills were set up along the riverbanks and most of the logs were recovered. In May 1908, the Susquehanna Boom Company disbanded. The following year, the boom was dismantled, ending the era of rafting on the Susquehanna River. The last commercial raft floated down the Susquehanna in 1917 and was sold to a mill in Marietta.

Each year between 1850 and 1890, about 2,500–3,000 rafts containing 150–200 million board feet of white pine traveled the West Branch of the Susquehanna. The Intelligencer published the following on June 14, 1833: “The industry quickly escalated over the next decades until the river became a super-highway of rafts. Between the 18th and 23rd of May in 1833, 2,688 arks and 3,480 rafts floated past Danville. That averages out to over 1000 rafts and arks per day or between 1 and 2 rafts every minute of the day. Their cargo was mostly grain and lumber.”

By the 1870s, Pennsylvania’s forests were disappearing. In 1885, Nebraska created Arbor Day as a day to plant trees to celebrate and safeguard forests. Other states followed, and the federal government recognized the need to protect and replenish the country’s wooded regions by the 1890s. It created the Division of Forestry, which established forest reserves around the country. The father of Pennsylvania forestry, Joseph T. Rothrock, became the state’s first forestry commissioner in 1895. Leaders in conservation like Governor Gifford Pinchot, Mira Dock, and J. Horace McFarland worked diligently to educate the public about forests.

By the 1920s, only twenty-five thousand acres of original forest remained. Since a majority of the old-growth forests in Pennsylvania were gone, the Commonwealth purchased thousands of acres of land from lumber companies and began to regulate and reforest the landscape. This gave birth to the modern conservation movement that continues to influence modern-day forestation practices. The Pennsylvania lumber industry continues to exist, but it utilizes new and improved technologies aim to balance the need for wood products with ecological needs.

Learn More
In commemoration of historic log rafting on the Susquehanna River, a group of individuals built a raft and floated down the River. On March 14, 1938, the “Last Raft” set off from Clearfield County for a historical re-enactment down the Susquehanna River. Throngs of people lined the riverbanks along the 200-mile route downriver. As the 112-foot raft passed under a railroad bridge in Muncy, it struck a pier and sank. Seven passengers drowned in the frigid water. Despite the tragedy, the raft journeyed on to Harrisburg, where it was sawed into timber and sold. Learn more about the story of the “Last Raft”.

Learn more about Pennsylvania’s Lumber Industry.

Sources

Brubaker, J. H. (2002). Down the Susquehanna to the Chesapeake. Pennsylvania State University Press.

Lauver, F. (2017, July 11). The Pennsylvania Lumber Museum preserves an industrial history. Pennsylvania Heritage Magazine.

Magee, D. F. (1920). Rafting on the Susquehanna. Lancaster County Historical Society.

Stranahan, S. Q. (1995). Susquehanna, River of Dreams. Johns Hopkins Univ. Press.

Susquehanna Log Boom. Pennsylvania Conservation Heritage. (2020, December 17).

Susquehanna. Blue Rock Heritage.

Wagner, V., Shellenberger, K., & Poticher, C. The story of the Montour log raft.

RiverRoots: Enola Low Grade

River Roots: Enola Low Grade

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.

RiverRoots Heritage Blog


Pennsylvania Railroad’s Enola Low Grade Line

As we celebrate the re-opening of the Martic Forge Trestle bridge, we look back at how the Enola Low Grade Rail Line came to exist and how it rocked the landscape. This engineering marvel was the dream of Pennsylvania Railroad (PRR) President Alexander J. Cassatt. At the turn of the twentieth century, the PRR struggled to keep up with passenger and freight demands. He planned a new line to stretch from Trenton, New Jersey to Enola, Pennsylvania. Lancaster County sat at a crucial location along the route and the proposed line would avoid congested passenger service areas and carve across rural land in the county. The goal was a flat, straight corridor west to the Susquehanna and then north along its shore. The PRR deemed the new line as the Atglen & Susquehanna Branch but many referred to it as the A&S or the Enola Low Grade.

The goal was to keep the grade below one percent and no curve sharper than two degrees. The plan seemed simple until you consider the typography of the land. But the nearly 50-year-old railroad lines in Lancaster County had issues that could not have been easily fixed. For example, the railroad near Gap has significant speed-restricting curves. Steep grades outside of Mountville and Elizabethtown required helper engines. In Lancaster City, the bridge over the Conestoga River had only two tracks despite four lines running to it on both sites. The Atglen & Susquehanna Branch would stretch across southern Lancaster County and then north along the Susquehanna River to the Enola railroad yard. In the end, the line would be as long as the Panama Canal and cost nearly 20 million dollars and over 200 lives.

Noble Road Bridge

Rather than tell the story of constructing the Atglen & Susquehanna Branch, we will move through the line from Atglen to Enola discovering the most significant parts of the project. At Atglen, the new rail line came off the existing mainline at an existing curve. The first challenge was constructing a massive bridge over Noble Road and the East Branch of the Octorara Creek near Atglen. This 60-foot tall stone arch bridge stands at the line dividing Lancaster and Chester Counties. Millions of tons of earth were required to ascend to the bridge height on the easy, one-percent grade demanded by the Pennsylvania Railroad. The rail climbed for 5 miles westward from Atglen to the Low Grade’s highest point at Mars Hill Summit in Bart Township.

It is important to note that the PRR built this line for steam engines, which require water. So beyond a railroad track, the PRR built a water system alongside the A&S. In 1903, the Octorara Water Company formed from seven smaller, municipal water companies. Its only customer was the Pennsylvania Railroad. The railroad main line had four tracks that carried passenger and freight service. The A&S had two tracks for only freight traffic. Together, these tracks used more than 2 million gallons per day from the Octorara Water Company. Remanents from the adjacent water system can still be found today. 


Noble Road Arch bridge under construction
Moore Memorial Library, Christiana, PA

A deep ribbon of fill created the low grade desired
Moore Memorial Library, Christiana, PA

The Cuts

No section of the Atglen & Susquehanna Branch showed PRR’s commitment to modifying the landscape than the stretch from Quarryville west through Providence Township. In these seven miles, the McManus Construction Company moved 1.3 million cubic yards of rock and earth to create seven cuts, as deep as ninety feet. 1.3 million cubic yards is an unimaginable amount of earth. It is equivalent to over 81,000 full dump trucks. If they leveled it to 3 feet high and 3 feet wide the dirt and soil removed would stretch east to west across Pennsylvania, twice. The digging took nearly a year to complete. The section also required twelve new road bridges and crossings over a dozen streams.

Compressed air drills, sunk pilot holes for dynamite blasting, and steam shovels removed debris in layers. It was piled directly next to the railway creating massive berms. A crew of nearly 300 men followed moving the debris out of the way. It is difficult to find information on the workers that took on these dangerous jobs. We know some were local whites and Blacks, primarily from obituaries and accident reports in the newspapers. Many immigrants also took jobs for the railroad. Newspaper reports mention Italians, Syrians, Germans, and Turks. One local worker remembered that they were taken directly from incoming boats to the job sites. Italian masons did much of the stonework on the two dozen bridges over and under the rails.

 


Columbia Historic Preservation Society

Columbia Historic Preservation Society

Kline Collection, Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania

Steel Trestles: Martic Forge and Safe Harbor


Kline Collection, Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania

Columbia Historic Preservation Society

At the Martic Forge, the Pequea Creek sits in a deep ravine with impressive stone cliffs on either side. The PRR sought to span the 635 feet between the stone cliffs with a steel trestle bridge. The bridge had to straddle the creek as well as an existing trolley line (now River Road). In the end, the double-track bridge soared nearly 150 feet over the creek.

Just 3.5 miles passed the Marticville Trestle Bridge was another formidable gap at Safe Harbor. Safe Harbor is located at the confluence of the Conestoga and Susquehanna Rivers. The sheer cliffs along the river posed another arduous obstacle. Unlike the Marticville span, the PRR planned to span the gap below the ridgeline. Thousands of pounds of rock needed to be dynamited off the cliffs to create the wide and flat grade. The contractor H.S. Kerbaugh of Philadelphia was hired for the tremendous project. Kerbaugh had completed numerous projects for the Pennsylvania Railroad including the Rockville Bridge at Marysville in 1900. His job was to create two separate freight roads at a location where one barely fit. 

Nearly 3,000 men worked continuously with drills and explosives to the rock and loam in their way. They drilled hundreds of pilot holes, after which, they hand-passed dynamite up the cliffs. All the dynamite would be placed in the pilot holes and detonated at once. In just one month in 1905, they used 225 tons of explosives that removed over 240,000 cubic yards of material. This was, of course, dangerous work. The newspaper reported deaths regularly with headlines like “Awful Fate of Six Men,” “Four Men Torn to Shreds at Highville,” and “Two Men Burned to Death at Safe Harbor.” Columbian and avid railroad historian, Fred Abenschein, once explained “If you were a WASP, you got your name mentioned when you died. When others died, they were just numbers.” 

The Safe Harbor Trestle Bridge ended up being over 1,500 feet long and over 150 feet above the water. Over the river was a 300′ Pratt truss. Nine additional spans sat at the northern end with seventeen spans on the southern approach. Unexpectedly it also ended up being a dual bridge construction project. The Columbia Port Deposit Bridge over the Conestoga river at this location was washed away just as as trestle project began. Rather than rebuild it at the exact location, the PRR designed a unique two-line, two-level steel bridge. The Columbia & Port Deposit Line was carried over the river, while the Safe Harbor Trestle ran parallel nearly 100 feet higher.


Drilling pilot holes

Hand-passing dynamite up the cliffs
Images above courtesy of Columbia Historic Preservation Society

All that rock and loam debris had to fall somewhere and most ended up in the river. This affect wildlife as well as local residents. A court case from 1913 was found settling a dispute between some local residents and Kerbaugh Construction. The residents own some islands on the Susquehanna River near Safe Harbor totally 136 acres. About 80 acres of the islands were used for agriculture. The owners claimed all the blasting filled the river channel and made it impossible to get to their property. In the end, they owners were awarded about $8,000 for damages. There were no requirements made to clean up or clear the rock from the channel.

Kerbaugh’s Lake

Another massive landscape project happened north of Columbia near Chickies Rock. The rail line followed the shoreline of the river which hugged the massive cliffs. Although the land was flat, it had a curved profile along the cliffs. The PRR was uncompromising with its demands so tons of fill was brought in to build up a straight track through the river. In doing so, they cut off a 3/4 mile-long section of the river. The low-lying swamp that divided the PRR’s old railway with the new one was deemed Kerbaugh’s Lake. Kerbaugh was the primary contractor between Safe Harbor and York Haven. About thirty years later in 1936, the rail line at the lake was significantly damaged by flooding. After repairs, a plan to fill the lake began. By the end of World War II, the lake was gone. 


Juxtaposition of 1908 Topographic Map showing Kerbaugh’s Lake and 2022 Google Maps showing forested area.

Shock’s Mill Bridge

The Shock’s Mill Bridge was one of the first construction projects as part of the Atglen & Susquehanna Branch in December 1902. By May of 1903, the construction crews were building one pier per week. About eighteen months later it was complete with 27 piers, and 28 arches, with the railway sitting 60 feet above the water. The intensity with which the project moved did have a cost; there were numerous injuries from premature explosions and at least one drowning. On the York side, the Northern Central Railroad had recently expanded tracks from Wago Junction to Enola Yard so PRR work in that region was nearly complete. Things were different across the river. The approach to the bridge from the Lancaster side needed to be more than a mile long. Fill had to be shipped in to raise the railroad tracks over 36 feet in height. The Vesta iron furnace in Marietta supplied cinders. The Lancaster approach cost over $200,000 more than the bridge cost.

After three long years, the A&S was opened on July 27, 1906. A dedication ceremony in the “the Deep Cut” near Quarryville was the location where about a hundred people watched local businessman George Hensel hammer the final spike. The Pennsylvania Railroad had realized their dream. They create a freight super highway across central Pennsylvania. The contribution of the Low Grade line to the growth of the Pennsylvania Railroad is incalculable. In 1938 the PRR transitions the line from steam to electric using power from the Safe Harbor Hydroelectric Dam. In 1941, the route carried an average of 2,220 railcars in each direction every day. For nearly 80 years, the rail line served the fuel and food demands of the eastern seaboard. The the last train came through the line in 1989. 

In the last 30 years, an amazing regional effort has reimagined the Enola Low Grade Line as a rail trail. Today, October 27, 2022, with the opening of the Martic Forge Trestle Bridge, there will be nineteen completed miles of trails. As you walk or ride between the Turkey Hill Trailhead and the town of Quarryville, take the time to imagine the back-breaking labor and undaunting vision that it took to create the corridor.

Learn More

Explore the Enola Low Grade Trail and the NW River Trail! Use the SNHA trail guide digitally or grab a paper version at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center. You can see all our Maps & Guides online. While you are on the trail, look for heritage panels along the way.

Visit the Railroad Museum of Pennsylvania in Lancaster County. They have a collection of over 100 locomotives on display plus the history of railroad development in the state.

Sources

Abendschein, Frederic. “The Atglen & Susquehanna: Lancaster County’s Low Grade.” Journal of the Lancaster County Historical Society 95 , no. 1 (1993): 2-19.

Brubaker, Jack. “Workin’ on the Railroad/ A century ago, a monumental task began along the Susquehanna River.” LancasterOnline. October 20, 2004.

“Enola Low Grade Trail – Safe Harbor Bridge,” BridgeHunter.com. Accessed October 22, 2022.

“Hershey v. H. S. Kerbaugh, Inc.” Case Law V|Lex. October 27, 2022.

LancasterOnline Archives 

“The Atglen & Susquehanna Low Grade,” Atglen Borough. Accessed October 27, 2022. (Amtrak 2011 Heritage Panels for the trail)

RiverRoots: Forgotten Fruit: Pawpaw

River Roots: Forgotten Fruit: Pawpaw

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.


The pawpaw is a native fruit with deep roots and a big history that most people have never heard of. It is the largest edible fruit native to the United States. The fruit is indigenous to 26 states from northern Florida to Maine and west to Nebraska. The Susquehanna NHA is abundant with pawpaws if you know where to look. Those who know what they are consider pawpaws a delicacy.

What’s a Pawpaw?
The pawpaw belongs to the “custard apple” family of tropical fruits called Annonaceae. It is the largest family of the magnolia order (Magnoliales) of flowering plants. There are over 2,000 species in the family including trees, shrubs, and woody climbers. The majority of Annonaceae are tropical. A few species, like the pawpaw, extend into temperate regions.

Pawpaws look like mangos and taste like bananas, a trait of their tropical family tree. (Get it?) Yet, they are not tropical. The pawpaw grows best in areas with hot summers and cold winters. They fruit in late August to early October.

Pawpaw Trees (Asimina Triloba)
Pawpaw’s scientific name is Asimina, which comes from the Algonquin word for the tree: assimin. The trees are most common near riverbanks and in the understory of the rich eastern US forests. Pawpaws are understory trees, which means they can still thrive under the canopy of a taller tree. These fruit trees like humid aid moist ground, which is why they grow in fertile soil along waterways and hillsides. Pawpaws protect themselves against blight and mold if planted in areas with good drainage and airflow. There are both male and female trees. However, the pawpaw tree is clonal and spreads by root, so they grow in patches.

In the springtime, the tree gets beautiful dark maroon flowers. Once pollinated those flowers transform into mango-sized fruits by September. The pawpaw leaves provide a tropical look that is like its Annonaceae cousins. Each leaf can be up to 12 inches long. When torn, pawpaw tree leaves have an unpleasant odor. The unpleasant-smelling leaves, twigs, and bark of pawpaws contain natural insecticides called acetogenins. They defend the tree from hungry woodland animals like rabbits, deer, and even insects. The fruit is a great meal for opossums, foxes, squirrels, raccoons, and birds.

Harvesting pawpaws at home is going to take some dedication and patience. Pawpaw trees grown from seeds can start to produce fruits in four to eight years. If you plant grafted transplants, then you might have to wait three or more years to harvest their fruits. The best pawpaw varieties are Shenandoah, Allegheny, Susquehanna, and PA Golden.

The Pawpaw Tree is an important butterfly host plant. It is the only plant on which the larvae of the Zebra Swallowtail Butterflies will feed. Chemicals in the pawpaw leaves protect the butterflies from predation. The awful-tasting acerogenins in the leaves make the Zebra Swallowtail unpalatable to predators.

Pawpaw Fruit
The pawpaw has a creamy, custard-like flesh with a tropical flavor. It is often described as a combination of mango, pineapple, and banana. The pawpaw is sometimes called the Appalachia Banana, Custard Apple, or Poor Man’s Banana. You can ripen the fruit at room temperature. They are ready to eat once their skin has speckled black spots and they are soft to the touch. The easiest way to eat one is to cut the ripe fruit in half, remove the seeds, and squeeze the flesh from the skin. Do not eat the skin or seeds, as they contain toxins.

When fully ripe, the fruit’s flesh presents as yellow-orange to white in color. Its consistency is comparable to soft-serve ice cream or mashed potatoes. You can eat pawpaws raw or use them in chilled desserts such as smoothies and ice cream. They also bring flavor to pudding, preserves, butter, and jams. They can be creatively used in cocktails, coffee, and even beer.

Ripe pawpaw fruits have a very short shelf life of only 3-5 days. This makes pawpaws an unlikely product in most grocery stores. Retail prices for fresh pawpaws at farmers’ markets and upscale grocery stores range from $3 to $8 per pound. The prices are even higher when bought online. Frozen pawpaw pulp can sell for $6 per pound or more.

Pawpaw History
Fossil records show that the papaw’s forebears spread to North America millions of years before humans. Scientists hypothesize that as the planet warmed, now-extinct mammals such as mastodons and giant ground sloths ate pawpaws whole and dropped seeds as they migrated north.

Native Americans used the pawpaw as food and medicine for centuries. According to historians at Colonial Williamsburg, Native Americans ate both wild and cultivated pawpaws. The fruits, which usually ripen in September, were a seasonal staple in Native Americans’ diets. They are them straight from the tree or dried into them fruit leather to eat in the winter. In 1541, Hernando de Soto noted that Indians in the Mississippi Valley grew and ate the Pawpaw fruit.

Though often forgotten today, pawpaws often left their mark on American culture. European settlers named towns, creeks, and islands after the pawpaw. Thomas Jefferson and George Washington both had pawpaws growing in their gardens. Daniel Boone and Mark Twain were also pawpaw fans. Lewis and Clark documented in their journal that pawpaws and nuts their expedition during a rough patch as they ventured to the Pacific Northwest in 1810. In 1826, James Audubon painted a pair of cuckoo birds in a pawpaw tree. Soldiers from both the North and South subsisted on pawpaws during the Civil War. Pawpaws also helped to supplement the diets of enslaved people. Freedom seekers ate pawpaw as they made their way along the Underground Railroad.

Traditional Appalachian Folk song, “Way Down Yonder in the Pawpaw Patch.” Listen to it here.

Learn More

In the Susquehanna National Heritage Area, the Horn Farm Center celebrates the pawpaw every year. This year, York County’s 18th Annual Pawpaw Festival is on September 24th & 25th! The Horn Farm Center has a pawpaw orchard on site. Dick Bono started the grove in 2012 and he still maintains it. The grove now has 48 trees and over 20 varieties of pawpaws. At the event, you’ll find different variety of pawpaws available for you to taste and buy. You can even take home a tree to start your own grove.

Looking to forage for your own pawpaws?

You will find them along a variety of recreational trails. Check out the Falmouth Forest Garden along the NW Lancaster County River Trail. The Lancaster Conservancy planted this five-acre section of the Conoy Wetlands Nature Preserve to showcase native edible foliage like pawpaws. Further south, you’ll find pawpaws along the Turkey Hill Overlook Trail. This moderate hike is worth the view when you arrive at the scenic vista overlooking a National Audubon Birding Area. Pluck pawpaw on the way to the top. When picking pawpaw, a gentle tug should remove it from the tree. If it’s not coming loose, it’s not ripe. The fruit should feel like a ripe peach when gently squeezed. Once you’ve found a ready one, peel the skin and dig in – just remember to spit out the seeds!

 

Sources

Former Horticulture Extension Pennsylvania State University, J. E. (2022, September 1). The native Pawpaw Tree. Penn State Extension. Retrieved September 4, 2022.

Botanist for National Capital Region Network, Inventory & Monitoring program, E. M. (n.d.). Pawpaw: Small Tree, big impact. National Parks Service. Retrieved September 4, 2022.

Ames, G. K. (201, June 17). Pawpaw – a “tropical” fruit for temperate climates. Cornell Small Farms. Retrieved September 4, 2022.

Farmerpam, A. (2019, September 24). Cultivated pawpaw varieties. Sustainable Market Farming. Retrieved September 4, 2022.

Patti Moreno. (n.d.). All about pawpaws. Stark Bro’s Nurseries & Orchards Co. Retrieved September 4, 2022.

Pawpaw trees (asimina triloba) for zebra swallowtail butterflies. Joyful Butterfly. (2022, August 18). Retrieved September 4, 2022.

Stephens, R. (2019, July 24). What is a pawpaw, and why is it so magical? Food & Wine. Retrieved September 4, 2022.

RiverRoots: 1863 Bridge Burning

River Roots: 1863 Bridge Burning

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.


In the Susquehanna River, between Columbia and Wrightsville, a row of piers stands vacant. For over a century, these piers held bridges that connected Lancaster and York Counties. The most famous of those bridges was the wooden covered bridge that was burned during the Civil War. The fire that consumed that bridge changed the course of history.

The Columbia Bank and Bridge Company financed its first bridge across the Susquehanna River in 1814, but ice lifted it from its piers and destroyed it in 1834. The Company knew that a replacement bridge needed to complement the new commercial growth. They chose a new location: just north of the present-day Route 462 bridge. The bridge design included double railroad tracks inside a covered structure. Two towpaths for moving canal boats across the Susquehanna. Thirty years after its completion, this bridge became a choke point in the Civil War.

In the late spring of 1863, the Confederate Army pushed north through the Shenandoah Valley to invade the Northern states. They reached Pennsylvania with orders to raid for much-needed supplies and then to beat the Army of the Potomac on their turf. General Robert E. Lee wrote:

[The Yankees will be] broken down with hunger and hard marching, strung out on a long line, and much demoralized when they come into Pennsylvania. I shall throw an overwhelming force on their advance, crush it, follow up the success, drive one corps back on another, and by successive repulses and surprises, before they can concentrate, create a panic and virtually destroy the army.[1]

Four Confederate Corps totaling over 70,000 men invaded Pennsylvania and spanned out across Franklin, Cumberland, Adams, and York Counties. Although Pennsylvania had raised an emergency militia, it was far smaller and poorly trained.

In late June, Major General Jubal Early’s Confederate division of nearly 12,000 men captured York city and demanded a ransom of supplies and money to outfit his troops. Early sent a brigade of men east under the leadership of Brigadier General John B. Gordon. After the war, Gordon wrote that his goal was to cross the Susquehanna River into Columbia, seize as many horses as possible, and move toward Harrisburg or Philadelphia. However, a contingent of Pennsylvania militiamen and local volunteers stopped Gordon in his tracks.

The Bottleneck

The bridge at Columbia had long been a bottleneck. It shared all the traffic across the river: rail, canal, wagon, pedestrian, carriage, horse, and livestock. The 40-foot wide and 5,620-foot-long bridge was essential to the commerce and prosperity of York and Lancaster Counties. There were only three bridges crossing the lower Susquehanna during the Civil War: The Camelback Bridge (Market Street) in Harrisburg, the Columbia-Wrightsville Bridge, and the Conowingo Bridge in Maryland. The Susquehanna River also had a significant current and flow in the lower section. With this knowledge, Union General Couch knew that the Susquehanna River would make a formidable defensive line.

Couch sent the 807-man 27th Pennsylvania Volunteer Militia, led by Colonel Jacob Frick, to defend the Columbia bridge. served as a lieutenant colonel at Fredericksburg and Chancellorsville. He had been mustered out of the army in May of 1863, but he went to Harrisburg to serve when Confederate Army threatened Pennsylvania. Many of the men that he led were from Frick’s native Schuylkill County in and nearby Northampton, Huntingdon, and Berks counties. They arrived by train to Columbia on June 24th, 1863, with orders to defend the fords and bridges across the Susquehanna River.

Citizens of York, Adams, Cumberland, and Franklin Counties rushed to move important property across the river to the safety of Lancaster. The turnpike up to the bridge in Wrightsville was lined with wagons, livestock, and horses. After a meeting between with Army and bridge company leaders, the company removed the tolls to allow for quicker movement of materials.[2] Mules and horses had always pulled freight through the bridge. Volunteers worked through the night to get all the wagons, livestock, and horses over to Lancaster County.

All that was left in Wrightsville were canal boats and locomotives. Canal boats in the Susquehanna & Tidewater Canal were pulled across the river and anchored on Columbia’s shore. Moving the locomotives was harder. Their funnel-shaped smokestacks wouldn’t fit through the bridge. Plus, there was always a fear that a spark from the engine would light the wooden bridge on fire. Railroad workers dismantled the locomotives and a team of ten mules slowly hauled the engines through. These were the first engines to ever cross the bridge. It took the better part of the day to move all the locomotives across the river to safety. In Columbia, they were coupled to waiting trains and pulled to Philadelphia.

Many people had also fled through the bridge to Columbia. In the western counties of Franklin, Adams, Cumberland, and York, many African Americans fled from the Confederate army through Columbia. They ran because the Confederates could claim they were fugitive slaves, regardless of whether or not they had ever been enslaved. Just three months earlier in March, the Confederate government issued orders that “fugitive slaves” should be rounded up and shipped south to special depots. The Confederates captured and enslaved hundreds of Black Pennsylvanians during this campaign.

In Columbia, Annie Welsh wrote, “…it was distressing to witness old and young, [B]lack and white, with all that they were able to move, and a great many with nothing but what they have on, come crowding through and into our town.”[3] Some individuals returned after the Gettysburg Campaign, but many others did not. The Confederate invasion of Pennsylvania made an indelible mark on the makeup of South-Central Pennsylvania. Annie simply wrote, “People were leaving in all directions.”

Setting the Explosives

Union General Couch knew that his untested troops might be outnumbered and overpowered, so he developed an alternative defense. From Harrisburg, he directed troops to place combustible materials on the Camelback Bridge and the Columbia-Wrightsville Bridge. Early on Sunday morning Robert Crane, the superintendent for the Reading and Columbia Railroad, received orders to supervise the placement of explosives on the bridge at the first sight of Rebels. The goal was to drop the fourth span from Wrightsville. If the 200-foot tall span fell into the river, it would stop the Confederates cold. They would be forced to retreat to York. Frick and the railroad superintendent felt that the bridge span could have been easily rebuilt after the Confederates retreated.

In Wrightsville, Frick set a defense line on either side of the turnpike just west of town and used a horseshoe troop formation to defend the town and bridge. Four companies from Columbia, three white and one Black, joined his troops and brought the total to 175 men. A force of convalescent Union soldiers also joined Frick.  Columbia’s white companies left by Sunday, leaving only the 53 African American men with Frick’s militiamen. Frick was particularly concerned about the southern flank which had only 238 to cover a 1,200-yard line over the tough territory around Kreutz Creek. Frick believed that they could hold the bridge if the Rebels only sent a small raiding party.

Mid-afternoon, Confederate Brigadier General Gordon marched his mile-long column of men through Hallam. At the general store and post office in town, they seized 200 dozen eggs, 20 pairs of boots, 20 pairs of shoes, 25 yards of calico cloth, and 10 barrels of pickled mackerel. Most of Wrightsville’s horses had been moved across the Susquehanna, but the Confederates still found and grabbed as many as they could find.

Gordon headed up a high ridge to observe the Union position. He was relieved to see that there was no artillery supporting the defenses. Gordon decided to divide the brigade and attack both Union flanks in a classic military tactic called the pincer movement. As Gordon prepared for an attack, a local music instructor left Wrightsville for York after giving a lesson in town. He spotted the long column of Rebels in the distance, reversed course, and sped back to Wrightsville. He was escorted to Colonel Frick and asked to describe the nature and size of the approaching troops.

Frick quickly sent word of the advance to two men: General Couch in Harrisburg and Railroad Superintendent Robert Crane in Columbia. Crane had already rounded up a group of carpenters to help him prepare the bridge for demolition. Between 15 and 20 Columbians headed to the fourth span from Wrightsville, nearly 800 feet from land. Once there, Crane and his workers removed planking so that artillery, wagons, and cavalry couldn’t cross the bridge. The men bored holes into the timbers and filled them with gunpowder. They sawed the heavy timbers and removed the roof and sidewalls to weaken the span.

Battle to Burning

Calvary men traveling up the railroad line fired the first shots on the southern flank of Wrightsville. Just as firing intensified throughout the line, Colonel Frick was informed that a scout had reported that the Confederate troops advancing towards them included three brigades of infantry and one regiment of cavalry. Although that message was not true, it meant Frick anticipated his 900 men would be up against nearly 5,000. Fighting continued for nearly an hour and fifteen minutes. It was becoming clear that he could not hold off the Rebels’ consistent thrusts on both flanks. If he waited much longer, they would sweep behind him, gain the bridge, and cut off the retreat. Frick gave the signal for a retreat across the bridge to prevent a senseless slaughter.

On the fourth bridge span from Wrightsville, four men sat ready to light the fuses. Robert Crane signaled to John Denney, Jacob Rich, John Lockard, and an old Black man named Jacob Miller to light the fuses and run across the destructing bridge and back to Columbia. Denney had worked in the Henry Clay Furnace nearby and had considerable experience in blasting. They felt confident the charges would drop the span. However, Denney reported that it “scarcely shook the bridge.”[4] Although the explosion failed to drop the span, it did scare the Confederate company that had just reached the bridge entrance.

Frick again turned to Robert Crane and asked him to set fire to the span. Quickly, men dragged fuel, boards, and wood shavings to the span. They soaked the kindling and bridge floor with coal oil and kerosene. John Denney and his three companions threw torches and ran. By the time they exited the eastern edge of the bridge, a column of flame could be seen in the sky.

Confederate troops tried to extinguish the fire, but the wind from the east intensified the fire and it spread across the whole western end of the bridge. Gordon rode into Wrightsville and demanded buckets and pails from the residents of the town, but none could be found. He was left to sit on his horse at the riverbank and watch the span collapse. Major General Jubal Early arrived to find Gordon on the riverbank. After hearing the account of the day, Early, frustrated that his chance to cross into Lancaster County was thwarted, left the bridge to its fate and returned to York.

The fire raged through the night and sparks landed on Wrightsville homes, spreading the blaze. Gordon’s men stayed in Wrightsville and helped put out the fires. Miraculously, buckets, pails, and tubs came from their hiding places to fight the flames. The bucket brigade worked for hours. Although dozens of buildings suffered damage, most of them were salvageable.

Columbians tried to save the remaining half of the bridge. Men went into the bridge and removed floor planks and pulled support beams, but the effort was in vain. It was only when the span closest to Columbia caught fire that the local fire company was able to stop the flames. Annie Welsh wrote to her husband that it was, “a Magnificent but awful sight.” Each span burned for nearly half an hour before it fell into the river. The flames and smoke were clearly visible from Marietta. General Couch stated that, in Harrisburg, they watched the glowing night sky to the southeast. Some Gettysburg residents thought the red glow in the west was from the Confederates burning York City.

Double Back West

By 11:00 am the next day, nearly all of the Confederates had left Wrightsville. They had contemplated other options to cross the mighty Susquehanna River, but they had all been too dangerous with Union artillery sitting in Columbia. In York, Jubal Early’s plans to invade Harrisburg were officially ended when orders came from Robert E. Lee to join the rest of the army near South Mountain. Gordon’s brigade was exhausted from long marching, battle, and firefighting. They wearily arrived in Adams County on Tuesday night, June 30th. The next day, the Battle of Gettysburg began. Many of the men that sacked Wrightsville did not leave Pennsylvania, as over 500 men from Gordon’s brigade died in the battle.

Years later, Jubal Early complained that, had Gordon been able to take the bridge, his division could have cut off the Pennsylvania Railroad, marched on Lancaster, and then attacked Harrisburg. Early’s plan had been “entirely thwarted by the destruction of the bridge.” Columbians had mixed feelings. Some were proud the Union militia and volunteers had stopped the Confederate. Others were frustrated, saying that they would have rather seen Rebels in the town than the bridge burned. No matter your opinion, the flames over the Susquehanna that night changed the outcome of the Confederate invasion of Pennsylvania.

Learn More

Come to Riverfest! The last weekend in June each year, the river towns commemorate the burning of the bridge in a weekend-long heritage and recreation festival.

Visit Historic Wrightsville at the Burning Bridge Diorama.

Reach the book Flames Beyond Gettysburg: The Confederate Expedition to the Susquehanna River, June 1863 by Scott L. Mingus Sr., which is the most comprehensive account of the event.

Footnotes

[1] https://www.historynet.com/conquer-peace-lees-goals-gettysburg-campaign/

[2] https://collections.lancasterhistory.org/media/library/docs/edit_vol84no3pp135_154.pdf

[3] Flames Beyond Gettysburg, 223.

[4] Mingus, 261.

Sources

Guttman, John, and Scott L. Mingus Sr. “Stopped Cold by Fire.” America’s Civil War. May 2022.

McPherson, James M. “To Conquer A Peace: Lee’s Goals in the Gettysburg Campaign.” HistoryNet, September 3, 2018

McSherry, Patrick M. “Defense of Columbia, June 1863,” Journal of the Lancaster County Historical Society. Vol.84, no. 3 (1980), 135-154.

Nicholas, Rachael. “African Americans during the Gettysburg Campaign.” National Parks Service. U.S. Department of the Interior, June 1, 2020.

Mingus, Scott L. Flames Beyond Gettysburg: The Confederate Expedition to the Susquehanna River, June 1863. El Dorado Hills: Savas Beatie, 2013.

Riverfest Weekend

RIVERFEST
June 24, 25 & 26

Head to the Susquehanna for Riverfest on June 24-26, 2022! Susquehanna National Heritage Area (NHA) and Rivertownes PA, USA have partnered to commemorate the Civil War burning of the world’s longest covered bridge. In June 1863, Confederate forces marched into Pennsylvania and spread across south central counties, raiding and sacking small towns. Columbia and Wrightsville joined together to protect Lancaster from the same fate. After a short battle, outnumbered Union troops and local volunteers set the wooden covered bridge that crossed the Susquehanna River ablaze. This act stopped the Confederates cold. They retreated west to a location in Adams County and, just two days later, that Army battled Union forces in the Battle of Gettysburg.

Riverfest is a weekend-long celebration of our river towns’ heritage and recreation. Susquehanna NHA, Rivertownes PA USA, and our heritage partners have created a range of experiences that tell the amazing stories of our past. Learn about the burning of the bridge story through several different heritage walks, talks, and trolley tours! Thanks to Columbia Historic Preservation Society, Historic Wrightsville Incorporated, and Friends of Mount Bethel Cemetery. Check out all the recreational trails that meander through our historic industrial landscape at the River Expo. Conquer the Bridge Burner Challenge Run & Paddle Race, a multi-sport race tracing the paths of the 1863 bridge burners. Looking to discover on your own? Grab a self-guided tour or digital adventure from Columbia Crossing. There’s over 100 miles of trails, 10 scenic overlooks, and over 2 dozen heritage sites in the Susquehanna National Heritage Area.

Thanks especially to our sponsors that believe in our mission to bolster our regional economy with heritage and recreation tourism.

INFERNO SPONSORS! John Wright Restaurant, Hinkle’s Restaurant/Murphy’s Mercantile, & Lancaster County Solid Waste Management Authority

BLAZE SPONSORS! Burning Bridge Antiques, Columbia-Middletown Elks, CPRS Physical Therapy, D.H. Funk & Sons, Isaac’s Restaurants, Sparrow Websites

FLAME SPONSORS! Manheim Auto Auction, Foresters of America, Art Design Group

Check out the full event schedule below and at: RiverfestPA.com

All Weekend:

🔥 Riverfest Trolley Tours
Explore our history on a trolley tour during Riverfest! On Saturday, June 25th the tour will take you around Columbia. Learn about the important Underground Railroad heritage of the town and how the residents and Union home guard prepared to defend the bridge. Come on back on Sunday, June 26th to have a trolley tour of Wrightsville and learn about the Confederate invasion of Pennsylvania and the battle for Wrightsville. Tours start at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center and last 40- 50 minutes depending on traffic.
June 25 & 26 from 11 AM – 5 PM
🔥 Bridge Burners. Who Were They?
Meet the five men that lit the fuse in a walking tour of Mount Bethel Cemetery. Learn about their lives and why theywere chosen for a such a dangerous and important job. Tour is $5 per person. Online pre-registration is available. Cash only on the day of the tour.
June 24 & 25 at 6 PM
June 26 at 11 AM
🔥Riverfest Antique Trail
Explore Riverfest Antique Trail and take a piece of history home! Find glassware, pottery, signs, silver, porcelain, military items, books, art, historical papers, furnishings from the 18th, 19th, and early 20th centuries and so much more, as you enjoy antique hunting through 300 years of history!
June 24-26 at Participating Stores
Burning Bridge Antique Market  Visit an exciting and innovative antiques market with hundreds of vendors & thousands of consignors, we have an ever-changing inventory.
304 Walnut Street Columbia, PA 17512
Bootleg Antiques A unique antique store, with over 70 dealers, located in an old commercial washing machine factory.  We can truly say, “The Past Still Lives!”
135 Bridge Street Columbia, PA 17512
Rivertowne Antique Center Located in a 110-year-old tobacco warehouse, this shop features quality antiques and collectibles that stand apart from typical crafts and reproductions you might find while browsing oddity shops.
125 Bank Ave, Columbia, PA 17512
Tollbooth Antiques A historic warehouse packed full of antiques, collectibles, and furniture at great prices. Something for everyone.
215 Chestnut Street Columbia, PA  17512
American Daydream Antiques & Miscellanea
Is not your typical antique store. Shop a large variety of items ranging from the 1800s-1990s. Including: comics, Star Wars, Transformers, milk bottles, uranium glass, York, PA items, records, VHS, vintage clothes, mid-century, kitsch and so much more.
3790 E. Market Street York, PA 1740
Marietta MarketplaceA new vendor-friendly co-op shop for antiques and collectibles. A varied inventory features vintage and collectible toys and action figures, comics and LP albums, sports and entertainment memorabilia, furniture, custom clothing, crystals and mineral specimens, coins and jewelry.
16 Perry Street Marietta, PA 17547
Third Street Vintage Enjoy a great array of hand selected vintage clothing items and all sorts of unique home decor, fun children’s toys, modern and stylish apparel, and accessories. Shop handcrafted jewelry, paintings, and merchandise created by a local artist!
17-19 S. Third Street Columbia, PA 17512
The Grateful Thread Provides nothing but the best curated finds from all over the 717. Vintage clothing and street wear store specializing in vintage graphic tees, custom crop tops, alternative fits, sneakers and much more!
214 Locust St. Columbia, PA 17512
Fragments of the Past Explore 20+ Vendors who work hard to make sure they are bringing you nothing but the best curated art, vintage, and antique finds that the 717 has to offer!
313 Walnut Street Columbia, PA 17512
Think big and small We have it all A diverse store where you may be able to find a varied treasures such as: antiques, vintage, midcentury, modern, furniture, home décor, wall hangings, glassware, and so much more!
438 Locust Street Suite 1 Columbia, PA 17512
Geltz Gotz Goodeze  Two rooms and a hall to find the perfect item for one and all.
4030 Locust Street Columbia, PA 17512

Friday:

🔥 Riverstown Fourth Friday!
Across Marietta, Columbia, and Wrightsville, our restaurants and businesses will be open late celebrating kick off to Riverfest weekend. Find flaming hot deals and firey dinner options!

Bully’s Restaurant & Pub Try a Railroad Bloody Mary made with Absolut Vodka, horseradish, Worcestershire, Tabasco, tomato, lime & olive juice, served in tall glass with a pickled peppered garnish and fresh jalapenos. Want some extra heat? Try the Flame Thrower Hot Wings: 1 lb. Jumbo wings tossed in Bully’s hottest wing sauce.
The Golden Whisk Toasted Smores Poptart in the Bakery!
Hinkle’s Restaurant “Fire” Cracker Sundae
HomeGoodies and Coffee Try the Ignite Sandwich!
Keystone Artisan Werks Free “Fire” Snow Cones at Meet the Vendors Night. Plus, Renegade Winery will have free wine tastings!
Rocky’s BBQ Grab a River Bowl! This hearty meal had mac and cheese, beans, and your choice of sausage.
Starview Brews Drop in for a Red, White & Blue Cocktail!

Saturday:

🔥 Bridge Burner Challenge Run & Paddle Race
A fun multi-sport race commemorating the burning of the world’s longest covered bridge in 1863. Race starts 9 AM sharp! Spectators can watch paddle section from Columbia River Park.
9 AM – 11 AM at Columbia River Park
🔥 River Expo
Meet outfitters and learn about river history and health at the River Expo. The expo is planned in conjunction with the Bridge Burner Challenge. Our goal is to showcase the Lower Susquehanna River region’s vast recreational opportunities in Lancaster & York Counties.
9 AM – 12 PM at Columbia River Park
🔥 The Man Who Stopped General Lee: Colonel Frink and His Defense of Wrightsville and Columbia
Join us at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center for a lecture from Cindy Beaston on the Union’s defense of the Susquehanna River’s most important bridge crossing. Cindy is a Columbia native and Gettysburg tour guide. She is currently writing a book about Civil War soldiers from Columbia.
12 PM at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center
🔥 On the Double Quick: Marching from Wrightsville into History
Join us at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center for a lecture from Cindy Beaston in Wrightsville after the burning of the bridge and the Confederate movements that led to the Battle of Gettysburg. Cindy is a Columbia native and Gettysburg tour guide. She is currently writing a book about Civil War soldiers from Columbia.
2 PM at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center
🔥 Bridging the Susquehanna: River Walk
Enjoy an easy walk through Columbia River Park to learn about all six bridges that have crossed the Susquehanna River between Columbia and Wrightsville. Have an up-close look at the historic piers that held the wooden covered bridge that was burned in the Civil War.
1 PM & 3 PM at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center.

Sunday:

🔥 Civil War Reenactors
Meet and interact with members of the 45th Pennsylvania Volunteer Infantry Company K. Visit their camp to learn about Civil War life including the Homefront and battlefield.
11 AM – 5 PM at Wrightsville Commons Park
🔥 NW River Trail Geology Walk with Jeri Jones
Join geologist Jeri Jones for a River Trail Walk & Talk on Sunday, June 26th at 12 PM. Explore the river geology between Columbia and the St. Charles Furnace along the Northwest Lancaster County River Trail. This easy, flat walk is about 1 mile out and back.
12 PM at Columbia Crossing River Trails Center
🔥 Paddle the Battle Kayak Tours
Susquehanna NHA and Shank’s Mare Outfitters have teamed up for this fun on-water experience. Get on the water at John Wright Restaurant and paddle out to the historic bridge piers. Learn about the battle for the bridge and bridge burner’s stories up close! A great, short trip for first-time, novice paddlers, and history buffs! Sign up today! $10 per person. Participants must be 12 years or older. Those ages 12 – 17 must be on the water with a parent/guardian. All participants will need to sign a waiver before going on the tour.
2 PM, 3 PM & 4 PM at John Wright Restaurant Lawn
🔥 Lecture on the Lawn
York County Historian Jim McClure will present a lecture on the Underground Railroad relationship with the Susquehanna River. Learn about the path to freedom through York County across the Susquehanna River and beyond Lancaster County. He will also talk about the Mifflin Farm – a nearby farmstead recently saved from demolition to be preserved as a public heritage site.
4 PM at the John Wright Restaurant Lawn
🔥 Ignite Concert!
Bring a lawn chair or blanket to the lawn at John Wright Restaurant! The Part-Time Managers will be on stage playing classic folk and Americana as the sun sets over Wrightsville. During their intermission, Ridiculous Nicholas will light up the stage with a fire juggling show.
5 PM – 9 PM at John Wright Restaurant Lawn
🔥 Lighting of the Bridge Piers
In commemorations of the brave acts of June 28, 1863, three historic bridge piers will be lit ablaze. As the fires are lit, Historic Wrightsville Incorporate will share the story of the burning of the bridge.
9 PM at John Wright Restaurant Lawn

RiverRoots: Mayfly – The Hatch

River Roots: Mayflies – The Hatch

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.


Each year, an annual event makes its way to the lower Susquehanna River. Those who live and work along the river know about the event, and many of those local folks have a story about it. It gets a lot of attention and questions from visitors. We do not know when this event will happen, how big it will be, or how long it will stay. Each summer, we are all waiting for “The hatch”.
 
The hatch is not a budget horror film, but rather what we call the emergence of thousands, even millions, of mayflies. Actually, several species of mayflies hatch all along the river at different times. But, when conditions are just right, swarms of mayflies appear without warning, overnight. They disrupt our peaceful summer evenings and leave us with a big mess in the morning. This unexpected event can be the bane of outdoor weddings and events. The swarms can even cause traffic problems. But mayfly hatches are important events, and their growing size is a sign of the river’s improving health. It can be both thrilling and frustrating to witness a large mayfly hatch over the Susquehanna.

What Are Mayflies?

The day after a hatch, thousands of dead mayflies lie piled around lamp posts and streetlights. They cover sidewalks and parking lots like snow. Out-of-town visitors encountering them for the first time usually have one question: what are those things?
 
Mayflies are aquatic insects that belong to the order Ephemeroptera, which means “short-lived”. They are also known as shadflies, fishflies, or up-winged flies. They are ancient insects that have lived on this planet for over 350 million years. They even lived while dinosaurs were here. There are more than 600 species of mayfly in the United States and over 3,000 worldwide. In Pennsylvania, there are at least 175 different species. Mayflies can vary in size, but they typically grow anywhere from 0.25 to 1.1 inches. The largest species of mayfly in the world is the Tisza Mayfly, found in Eastern Europe. It measures 4.7 inches from head to tail. The Tisza Mayfly hatch has become a tourist attraction known as the “Blooming of the Tisza.”
 
Mayflies spend most of their lives underwater. They begin as eggs and then hatch into nymphs (the first hatch of a mayfly’s life). As a nymph, a mayfly can live underwater anywhere from 2 weeks to 2 years, depending on the species. When the nymphs finish growing, they make their way to the surface and the hatch begins.

The Mayfly Hatch

Mayflies emerge at different times, depending on the species, weather, and water conditions. They could “hatch” from their nymph form in May… but it also happens in June, July, and even August. That’s because different mayflies, caddisflies, stoneflies, and duns hatch from April through September. Some species hatch several times a year if the conditions are right.
 
First, the nymphs emerge from the water by swimming to the surface or climbing out on rocks to the banks. Then, they shed their husk and become duns (subimagos). The duns float along the surface until their wings are dry enough to take flight. The duns fly into the bushes and trees along the riverbank, where they shed their skin and become complete adults, also known as spinners.
 
Many species of mayflies synchronize their emergence, increasing the likelihood of reproduction. Male mayflies spin and dance to attract a mate, usually beginning around dusk. The females join the dance and the mayflies swarm and mate in the air. The female then immediately lays her eggs in the water. After laying her eggs, she dies. In some species of mayfly, the eggs stay in the female’s body, floating with her to her underwater grave. Adult mayflies do not have mouths, since they do not eat during their few fleeting hours of adulthood

Hatches Along the Susquehanna

These large hatches are a good sign for the region. Mayflies and other bugs are so small that even small amounts of pollution can kill them. Mayflies are particularly sensitive. Even modest levels of water pollution can kill up to 80 percent of their eggs, so they are usually only found at minimally-polluted sites. Because they live in a wide variety of habitats and are so sensitive to pollution, mayflies are valuable water quality indicators.
 
As water quality improves, hatches will get bigger and more species of mayflies may also appear. Whiteflies hatch in large numbers in this region. Hexagenia bilineata, large dark mayflies whose dense swarms show up on weather radars, also hatch along the Susquehanna River.
 
Mayflies are common fish food because so many adults emerge from the stream at the same time. Fly fishers often use flies made to look like mayflies. During hatching season, fishermen and fisherwomen everywhere use artfully made flies that resemble these glorious insects. Mayflies are an extremely popular entrée for several types of fish, including trout. The nymphs are also a source of food for fish, birds, frogs, and other predatory insects.
 
Mayfly Mayhem of June 2015

One hatch here along this part of the Susquehanna River made international news in 2015. A swarm took to the lights on the Veteran’s Memorial Bridge on June 13, 2015, and created blizzard-like conditions. Several inches of dead mayflies piled up on the bridge, causing slick driving conditions and three motorcycle crashes. The bridge closed, and snowplows were even used in the cleanup. The bridge closed again briefly the next night due to another swarm.

 
Now, Columbia Borough turns off the bridge’s lights for a few weeks every summer to avoid another possible mayfly calamity. The dark bridge usually captures the interest of people unfamiliar with our river who wonder why the lights are out.
 
Those of us who love and respect the river, who work hard to make it a clean and healthy body of water, know that these mayfly swarms are a welcome sign that the river is improving. Like the mayfly’s lifespan, the hatch is a fleeting time full of stories, photos, and a little bit of mayhem. As the weather starts to warm up and we spend our days outside along the river, we all start to look and wait for our upcoming annual event: the hatch.

Learn More

June 8, 2022: Follow the Hatch—Aquatic Insects in Lancaster County’s Streams and Rivers  6:00 PM – 7:30 PM at Columbia Crossing. Join Dr. John Jackson of Stroud Water Research Center and Keith Williams of Lancaster Conservancy for a deep dive into the world of mayflies, stoneflies, caddisflies and the many other tiny creatures that call our streams home.

Stroud Water Research https://stroudcenter.org/news/mayfly-eggs-under-one-minute/

Lower Susquehanna Riverkeeper https://lowersusquehannariverkeeper.org/

Sources

“Mayfly swarms temporarily close Veterans Memorial Bridge again”. LNP Lancaster Online

Category: Burrowing Mayflies (Ephemeridae). Life in the Lower Susquehanna River Watershed. SusquehannaWildlife.net

Hadden, Jerry. “Upper Delaware River Insects.” delawareriverguide.net

Kaszas, Fanni. “Tisza Mayfly and ‘Tisza Blooming’ Becoming Hungaricums as National Values.” HUNGARY today.

Leonard, Justin W.. “mayfly”. Encyclopedia Britannica, 11 Mar. 2020.

Miller, Adam. “Massive Swarms of Bugs-A Sign of a River on the Mend.” Alliance for the Chesapeake Bay.

http://www.delawareriverguide.net/insects/insects.html

 

 


RiverRoots: History of the Shifter

River Roots: History of the Shifter

River Roots is Susquehanna NHA’s blog series featuring history from York and Lancaster Counties that showcases the Susquehanna River’s historic, cultural, and natural resource contributions to our nation’s heritage.


What is a shifter, exactly? In the Susquehanna National Heritage Area, it’s a railroad locomotive and a sandwich! But, it’s not just any sandwich. It’s a sandwich with local roots, almost exclusively served along the Susquehanna River in Columbia and Marietta.

Local accounts trace the origins of this sandwich back to the 1910s in Columbia. In that era, the railroad yard by the river was bustling with activity. An army of skilled and unskilled workers labored in the switching yard near the roundhouse. A roundhouse is large circular or semicircular building around turntabled used for servicing locomotives. Mechanics maintained locomotives, workers rushed to clean up after derailments, and conductors used “shifters” to move railroad cars from drop-off to pick-up points.

PRR roundhouse in Columbia. Courtesy of Columbia Historic Preservation Society

A “shifter” (also known as a “switcher”) is a small railroad locomotive used for maneuvering railroad cars inside a rail yard. Shifters are not intended for moving trains over long distances. They are for assembling train cars for another locomotive to take over. The typical shifter is low-powered but has a high starting tractive force for getting heavy cars rolling quickly. Switchers produce high torque but move slowly and have small diameter driving wheels. Shifters are to trains are what tugboats are to boats.

PRR 0-6-0 wood-burning shifter engine at the foot of Front & Locust Street in Columbia during the 1870’s. Courtesy of Columbia Historic Preservation Society

Switching was hard work. Shifter engines wore out quickly from constant collisions with cars and frequent starts and stops. Switcher locomotives needed water and coal or wood to operate. Some had a tank for water and others had a car called a “tender” that carried their fuel.

The hustle and bustle of downtown Columbia centered around the river and railroad industry. The low vibrations of trains riding the rails, the loud train whistles, and the smell of heat filled the air. Working in the rail yard was hard work, and the men worked up a mean appetite. Columbia’s restaurants, bars, and hotels all created hearty meals that workers could dig into as soon as they clocked out. One of those meals was the monster of a ham and cheese sandwich that we now call the Shifter.

Columbia Café, 307 Locust St. Columbia, Pa circa early 1900’s. Courtesy of Columbia Historic Preservation Society

There are a few stories in Columbia about who started serving the Shifter sandwich first. One story is that it was first started by the Lutz family at their hotel on Front Street in the 1930s. The Olena family also claims that they served Shifters in Columbia Cafe in the 1910s. Later, the Rising Sun Hotel claimed it, since they included the sandwich with an overnight stay. The Rising Sun may have been the first one to put the ingredients in the order we still use today. Although we can’t sort out all the gossip about its origin, we are going to share here the story from descendants of the Columbia Café family.

The “Shifter Club” was made up of a group of engineers and conductors who worked the switching yard. The Shifter Club met daily at the Columbia Café on Locust Street for lunch. Every time a new member joined the team, they had to buy lunch for the rest of the crew. As the economy worsened in the early 1900s, the tradition began to get too expensive to uphold. The owner of Columbia Café, Tuffield Olena, and his friend Benny Potts decided to come up with an affordable meal to keep the Shifter Club coming to the café. Between 1915 and 1920, the Columbia Café’s kitchen created a simple ham and cheese sandwich. They informally called it the “Shifter” after the group of guys for which they created it. However, the Columbia Café didn’t list the Shifter on the café menu because they only made it for the Shifter Club. The Columbia Café didn’t add the now-iconic sandwich to their menu until they moved to 4th & Locust Street in 1920.

Columbia Café Interior at 4th & Locust St. location. Courtesy of Columbia Historic Preservation Society

Feeding railroad workers was big business in Columbia. Railroad bosses often ordered a gallon of coffee, a gallon of soup, and a pile of sandwiches at three separate hotels. Columbia hotels were the top choice for lodging by railroad workers because the owners often included meals in the price. By the 1930s, many local eateries recreated and offered the Shifter to Columbia’s railroad workers. The Rising Sun Hotel and the Lutz/Lower Hotel both served up Shifter-style sandwiches to their guests. Both hotels wrapped the sandwiches to keep the food clean when workers ate them with one hand as they worked.

The basic Shifter wasn’t exactly nutritious, so restaurants added lettuce, tomatoes, and pickles. Local hotels often served Shifters at company-provided lunches for shift workers, so the name stuck around even after the railroads left Columbia.

The modern Shifter has a very specific construction. It starts with a slice of white bread, then a layer of mayonnaise, lettuce, and tomato slices. Next come two slices of Swiss cheese, two ounces of ham and dill pickles, and then another slice of white bread. If your sandwich isn’t constructed in that order, it is not a Shifter. Some people accept a few variations, like turkey instead of ham or sweet pickles instead of dill. Still, the Shifter remains mostly unchanged over the 100 years since it became a local favorite!

 

Learn More

Columbia Railroad Day is Saturday, May 7, 2022, from 11 am – 4 pm at the Columbia River Park! This year, it’s all about the Pennsylvania Railroad’s history in Columbia. Enjoy “HO” and “O” gauge model trains at the Columbia Historic Preservation Society. Ride a “speeder” or small gas-powered unit on the spur line that runs through Columbia. Take a historic tour on a vintage trolley or attend lectures at Columbia Crossing. Enjoy the Shifter Showdown, a variety of vendors, and food in the River Park.

Want to try Columbia, Pa’s most famous fare? Stop for lunch during your next visit and order an authentic shifter from Rose’s Deli & More or Hinkle’s Restaurant!

Sources

Bruce, A. Herr. “Olena Family History involving the Shifter.” Courtesy of the Columbia Historic Preservation Society.

The Shifter: Don’t Ask for one in Lancaster City. (1977, January 12). Susquehanna Times.

Fulton, A. “The Shifter”… plus a showdown and a slice of history.

Ries, J. (2019, December 11). A shifter by any other name… The Marietta Traveler.